yamahahaapex
TY 4 Stroke Master
I've got my 2011 Apex on a 2 speed clutch system from supertorquer. im running into an issue now where I have more weight than specified in the manual that my options are limited to keep the sled from hitting the rev limiter. Randy(from supertorquer) said to changed the secondary wrap from 6-1 to 6-2, as on moderate to extremely cold temps at any speed I am still hitting the rev limiter. What would the effect be on moving from 70* to 80* if my only issue is bringing the rpms down 100-200.
What would I expect making this move?
What would I expect making this move?
yamahahaapex
TY 4 Stroke Master
primary spring might have gotten weak? 5,000 hard kms on it
STAIN
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Adding spring wrap will increase RPM.
Riceburner
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Adding spring wrap will increase RPM.
X 2. Stain is right on.
Try 3 & 3. That might reduce them 100 to 200 rpm.
Tuning RPM with a secondary leaves something to be desired
mrtwostroke
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IF you hit the revlimiter you got a strong running motor don't see IT as a problem.
Add 1-2 g in the tip of the weight and look at 10500-10700 rpm.
Set sec for 3-3 and for loose snow boondocing 6-2.
Add 1-2 g in the tip of the weight and look at 10500-10700 rpm.
Set sec for 3-3 and for loose snow boondocing 6-2.
snowbeast
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Are you running his dragon fly,if so it should of come with two springs,and enough weight to load them down in tip,mid,and heel,now if you have his two speed,the ones that used to exspload sometimes,i cant help you. Right now I have a set of dfw still packaged up,i got for my cat turbo,and did not run,so I swapped them out for a set to fit the apex,i have had such great results with his dfws in the past,they hit hard,and go right to 10,800-11,000 and rip your arms hard.
snowdust
TY 4 Stroke Guru
What is the complete setup? Stock helix? Which secondary spring and what primary are you running? Hitting the rev limiter out of the hole or on top end? Stock track and how many studs? The two-speeds are hard to keep off the rev limiter without good traction. (Transfer set to max?) As far as the secondary... I don't know why that would have been his suggestion as it will slightly raise RPM. If you are hitting the rev limiter out of the hole only you'll have to get more traction or go to a less aggressive weight like the Drag-N-Flies. I have ran both and the flies are a little more consistent but not as fast when the 2-speeds are dialed in and have traction.
yamahahaapex
TY 4 Stroke Master
According to the manual for his two speeds. 38-20 weights should be loaded with 5g in the heel, rest of the weight empty. Ive added the pc5, ulmer box and exhaust, with each add on ive had to increase the weight. Im running a 1.5" track with a 144 and from holeshot, creep start or from any speed under 60mph I will hit the rev limiter. Transfer is at max. Randy also suggested moving the weight from heel to centre, still leaving the tip empty to help distribute the weight to bring top end down.
According to the manual, if the user is having problems hitting the rev limiter, weight should be added at the heel, one washer is 100rpms. Ive already got 3 washers, I might try a fourth but I would have to check for interference. Its like this sled has had a rebirth. On groomed trail or loose trail it hauls the mail. Seems way stronger this year.
Im thinking of leaving the secondary at 70* and adding a washer to the centre just to see what it does to experiment. The 2 speeds he has out now are updated and explosion proof so he says lol.
Its very close right now, if the weather is around the freezing point I can only get 10700-10800 in powder or groomed trail. Seeing as how this weekend is supposed to be cold I need to add weight to compensate as I will be at 11,000+
According to the manual, if the user is having problems hitting the rev limiter, weight should be added at the heel, one washer is 100rpms. Ive already got 3 washers, I might try a fourth but I would have to check for interference. Its like this sled has had a rebirth. On groomed trail or loose trail it hauls the mail. Seems way stronger this year.
Im thinking of leaving the secondary at 70* and adding a washer to the centre just to see what it does to experiment. The 2 speeds he has out now are updated and explosion proof so he says lol.
Its very close right now, if the weather is around the freezing point I can only get 10700-10800 in powder or groomed trail. Seeing as how this weekend is supposed to be cold I need to add weight to compensate as I will be at 11,000+
yamahahaapex
TY 4 Stroke Master
I should also mention I take my clutch apart every year and clean it meticulously. Sled only has 6,000kms on it but the clutch is always cleaned just like new before storage.
snowbeast
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Does his 2 speed come with two primary springs like all his other kits do.primary spring might have gotten weak? 5,000 hard kms on it
yamahahaapex
TY 4 Stroke Master
When should I start adding Weight to the center and tip locations? In the applications chart you will notice that adjustments are made at the shoulder location. Remember the Heel Clicker Two Speed weight flattens the shift curve which means all the adjustments can be made at the shoulder location. If you need more than 5.0 grams added to the shoulder then add 3.0 grams at the center location and 3.0 at the shoulder location. Never add more than 2 washers to the shoulder location! An interference fit may occur with some models.
yamahahaapex
TY 4 Stroke Master
yes it does, I have the black and white spring. still running the pink secondary.
yamahahaapex
TY 4 Stroke Master
What Helix or secondary spring should I run with the Heel Clicker weights? We have found the stock helixes work fine for most. The Heel Clicker Two Speed weight works just like a multiangled helix. It pulls hard on the bottom just like putting in a steeper helix. When the shoulder rotates forward it acts like tip weight pulling the belt to full shift out faster over riding any stiff secondary spring or shallow helix. Yamaha RX-1 should install the Yellow secondary spring at 3-3 (90 degree) twist.
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