eightpilot
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Had 120 miles on my new xtx last year before the snow went away. When summerizing I noticed that the belt was riding a little low in the secondary. Just a little below flush with the edges of the sheaves. From what i have read it is supposed to be flush with or just above the sheaves. I tried switching belts with my new spare, but no difference noted. How exactly do you go about reducing the distance between the sheaves therefore making the belt ride higher in the secondary? First time working with a Yamaha secondary... Thanks. 8
towerrigger
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
You will need to pull you secondary off. There will be 3- 8mm bolts on the back side of the clutch. They should have washers under them. Probably two. Remove one of them under each bolt and try it. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong here, it's been a while since i did this.
grizztracks
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By removing shims you spread the secondary apart. The bolt turns in farther without shims and holds the faces farther apart which drops the belt deeper into the clutch. You need to add shims to bring it up higher.
The belt on my Vector was squealing at an idle and I had to remove the shims to open up the secondary which loosened the belt on the primary.
The belt on my Vector was squealing at an idle and I had to remove the shims to open up the secondary which loosened the belt on the primary.
raptordan
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You will have to add a washer not remove to bring the belt higher in the secondary.By adding a washer the bolt doesnt screw in as far .Less washers = looser belt,more washers tighter belt.
maxdlx
Lifetime Member
What was the question your avatar jumbled my thinking
eightpilot
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Cool. Now i've only worked on Poo secondary's, but when I take these bolts of the back nothing is going to spring apart on me right? Just wondering if the bolts are under tension from the spring... Thanks again. 8
grizztracks
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Nothing will fly apart. They thread into the inside clutch plate and protrude out the other side. the shims adjust how far they can protrude through the plate. They push the outer clutch plate away from the inner so there is some pressure on them. If you need to add shims make sure they are all the same thickness or the bolts will not contact the clutch plate properly. I'd go to your dealer to get the proper ones. If you add shims and your belt squeals you've added to much.
When I removed the shims I stuck a tie strap through the holes and strapped them under the hood so I wouldn't lose them.
When I removed the shims I stuck a tie strap through the holes and strapped them under the hood so I wouldn't lose them.
eightpilot
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Thanks... I will give it a try next week. 8
Alatalo
TY 4 Stroke Master
eightpilot said:From what i have read it is supposed to be flush with or just above the sheaves.
Some people try to get the belt to ride as high as possible between the sheaves, probably in an effort to maximize the starting ratio of the clutch system.
I have always adjusted belt deflection according to the Ski-Doo race manual which means you are actually concentrating on the belt deflection between the two clutches instead of the belt position between the sheaves.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
Alatalo said:eightpilot said:From what i have read it is supposed to be flush with or just above the sheaves.
Some people try to get the belt to ride as high as possible between the sheaves, probably in an effort to maximize the starting ratio of the clutch system.
I have always adjusted belt deflection according to the Ski-Doo race manual which means you are actually concentrating on the belt deflection between the two clutches instead of the belt position between the sheaves.
Yup. I come from the run it as snug as you can school for the reason mentioned above. If the belt's not squealing, and the sleds not creeping, you aren't hurting a thing. If it's not close to squealing or creeping, you may be wasting available ratio.
As a little aside to this, if you do run a lot of deflection (by accident or otherwise), you're going to find the belt will wear a notch in the primary sheave - up from the bottom an amount defined by how loose you were running it.....
rxrider
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Spec is between 0.5mm above the sheaves to 1.5mm below the edge of the sheaves. If you lift the belt too high in the secondary belt will start to squeal at idle beeing too tight agains the primary.
The closer to the upper spec the lower the engagement gear ratio will be.
The closer to the upper spec the lower the engagement gear ratio will be.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Actually the Spec is -.5 to +1.5 mm
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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R2D2 has been known to make mistakes from time to time - Len Todd your spec is the correct one...
Could anyone post some pics of what it should look like and what shims to add or remove? Right now my belt is flush with the top of the sheaves...I thought rule of thumb was the cord in the belt should sit flush with the top of the sheaves...( at least it was on my F7 ) if I remember correctly my SRX ran flush aswell...appreciate any help on this.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Flush is good.
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