• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Cam Chain Tensioner Replacement (3 cylinder engine 05-07)

350 does sound reasonable. did either of you guys have noise in the engine or was this just preventative. and if you did what did the noise sound like. and was it easy to make out over the clutch noise.
 

I started hearing some "clanking" or rattling noises in my 2006. Though the clutch makes plenty on it's own. I suppose though that it was preventative though as I did not see unusual wear on the cam chain or on the chain guide on the valve cover indicating slackness.

I was comparing it to my sister Sue's 2007 though, the engine in that is pretty quiet.
 
Well, I picked my sled up last night, and I have to say, I was pleasantly surprised. The bill was $400.52 to do the tensioner, clean and sync the carbs. I was really expecting it to be around 500! I never heard any noise, just wanted piece of mind with over 10,000 miles on the sled. The dealer did tell me that they have done a lot of these and have picked up a few tricks to get it done quicker. One thing that puzzled me though, the invoice also listed 4 qts of oil. Is it necessary to drain the oil to change the tensioner? I didn't think so.
 
If they pulled the valve cover and possibly introduced dust into the engine, I'd change it too after the first test run. I'm pretty careful about keeping a clean engine when it's open but some shops doing things on time might not be. Not that it's a bad thing, but changing the oil after is a good idea.

Besides I drained my oil tank when I pulled it off. Didn't have to disconnect the bottom hose but all of them on the top I did.
 
There is no need to change the oil. I disconnect the tank at the top and swing it out of the way. If dust and dirt fall into the top of the engine when the valve cover is off changing the oil won't remove it unless the engine is ran for awhile before doing a change. Anytime you open an engine up you should cover the opening with clean rags or plastic to help prevent contaminants or foreign objects (tools, bolts,washers...) from falling in.
 
Just finished doing the job. Wanted to say thanks to Grizztracks for the great DIY write up. It helped out alot. Motor is super quiet now. All you can hear is the primary. Peace at last!
 
I just wanted to add that I kind of struggled when making the special tool for removing the rear spacer. Once I finally got it out I made a new and improved tool with a piece of 3/8" keystock to get maximum grip on the notch on the spacer. Ideally I would of used a deep well as Grizz suggested but we only had snap on and mac tools on hand so we ruined a short socket and a small extension. Here is a picture of the 3/8" keystone welded to a socket.
 

Attachments

  • IMG-20110107-00029 compressed.jpg
    IMG-20110107-00029 compressed.jpg
    82.8 KB · Views: 360
  • IMG-20110107-00030 Compressed.jpg
    IMG-20110107-00030 Compressed.jpg
    81.1 KB · Views: 355
I have always had a funny rattle under the hood since when I bought my 07 rs venture in 08 from the dealer! I asked them about the sound and they told me it was normal to hear things like that in a 4 stroke because the motors are much quieter and the exhaust is out the back! This was my first 4stroke and it has been performing well so I never thought anything of it! I will have to double check to see where that noise is coming from now.
 
RSVECTORFREAK said:
It's amazing how quiet it is afterwards.

I purposefully listened to the darn thing this fall just to hear if it was making any racket, and it was fine. Now I'm wondering if the oil was too cool in the fall when I checked it.....Because it hasn't been anywhere yet. Our week long trip is in 1.5 weeks, tensioner should be here Friday. I had the seat off to do dounuts and the battery tray to do the front bushings........back in November... :o| :o| :o|
 
Crewchief47 said:
RSVECTORFREAK said:
It's amazing how quiet it is afterwards.

I purposefully listened to the darn thing this fall just to hear if it was making any racket, and it was fine. Now I'm wondering if the oil was too cool in the fall when I checked it.....Because it hasn't been anywhere yet. Our week long trip is in 1.5 weeks, tensioner should be here Friday. I had the seat off to do dounuts and the battery tray to do the front bushings........back in November... :o| :o| :o|

Mine sounded good when I put it away last year too. Got 40 miles on it this year and I could hear it big time when idling..
 
canadianhunter said:
Very good write up grizztracks.
Could you also write the procedure to remove the valve cover to check the valve timing ONLY ?
Ever since our two were done I have always felt that they did not idle very well and cold weather starting seemed poor, being especially had to keep idling untill good and warm when choke is turned off . I would like to check one just for piece of mind. Thanks

Hi
I just had mine done and when I started it up at the dealer it ran terrible, would n't idle. When I touched the throttle it would die. Did you have your timing checked? Was it off?
 


Back
Top