Is it me or is the inside ski lift/ bad tight trail handling talk more rampant this year?
I basically left my machine stock aside from the many great set-up tips I got from many of you on this site. This year I am determined to make my machine handle better. I have not been able to run higher than 50-55 lbs in my floats without scary results and would like some feedback related to the revalve packages many of you have done. Does it make that big of a difference? Is it worth the money? Are the guys with the GYTR shocks having as bad a time with the inside ski lift? If not why not buy a set of coil overs? Do the remote air cans/revalve kit that Hygear sells really help? I am getting ready to spent some $$$ and don't want to be in the same boat I am now. Lots of questions, but there are lots of opinions out there so em rip. Thanks!
I basically left my machine stock aside from the many great set-up tips I got from many of you on this site. This year I am determined to make my machine handle better. I have not been able to run higher than 50-55 lbs in my floats without scary results and would like some feedback related to the revalve packages many of you have done. Does it make that big of a difference? Is it worth the money? Are the guys with the GYTR shocks having as bad a time with the inside ski lift? If not why not buy a set of coil overs? Do the remote air cans/revalve kit that Hygear sells really help? I am getting ready to spent some $$$ and don't want to be in the same boat I am now. Lots of questions, but there are lots of opinions out there so em rip. Thanks!
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
Why would you consider revalve packages or different shocks if you haven't adjusted anything apart from the pressure in your ski shocks?
Save your money (or put them towards a decent set of skis) and learn how to adjust your suspension. Do not disregard the great information and tips that others have suggested to you. Experiment with different settings and learn what each adjustment does.
A new set of shocks will need adjusting too.
Save your money (or put them towards a decent set of skis) and learn how to adjust your suspension. Do not disregard the great information and tips that others have suggested to you. Experiment with different settings and learn what each adjustment does.
A new set of shocks will need adjusting too.
2008 Nytro RTX
TY 4 Stroke God
Changing the skis are a must,My sled darted everywhere last year and pushed. Got C&A Razors and it totally got rid of the darting 100% and it doesn't push as much. With that being said,I have to tighten the straps so it will stop pushing all together.
I have made other adjustments besides the front shocks. The limiter strap helped but it isn't the answer for me. I just installed new powder hounds with 6"shapers. I want to hear from the guys that re-valved and now have a few rides on them.
I had Hygear suspension put a trail pro package together for my Nitro. It was worth every penny. The sled doesn't high side, wheel as bad, ( but still does ). I can make it stiff or soft with the turn of the clickers. It is awesome. Also added X2 triple threat skis and stud boy 6" carbides.
sheetwright
Northwoods Snowmobiling Facebook
I just switched to the GYT, from the original fox floats. Maybe that was the easy way out, but they work great. The floats I had were revalved and had the mufffin works resevoirs on them. Maybe I just don't have the patience, since the snow is flying to deal with the floats. The deal I got from Canada for the GYT's were worth it ($450). I also have the C&A razors on mine, and no darting at all. I had to adjust the limiter strap to keep her from pulling up at fulll throttle/hole shots. Don't know how much it helped, but I also have the Ulmer bushings, and machined the upper ball joints down. Let me tell you the new 09 subframe held up so far. Good luck so far with the new changes I did.
dburu2
VIP Member
revalve
Pioneer did my floats last year to Apex like specs . The ride was a ton better with no harsh feed back through the bars. I've been running 60# in them ,ran 45# in with the orig. valving. You will have to adjust to your spec. setup. This year had pioneer do the revalve on both susp. shocks.300 mls on so far and what I can tell u so far is the studder bump capabilities are night and day diff. no spanking. I havn't reached the final setup yet because of snow availiblity but I'm very pleased with the results for the cost investment .Still a PIA just because you need too do it.
Pioneer did my floats last year to Apex like specs . The ride was a ton better with no harsh feed back through the bars. I've been running 60# in them ,ran 45# in with the orig. valving. You will have to adjust to your spec. setup. This year had pioneer do the revalve on both susp. shocks.300 mls on so far and what I can tell u so far is the studder bump capabilities are night and day diff. no spanking. I havn't reached the final setup yet because of snow availiblity but I'm very pleased with the results for the cost investment .Still a PIA just because you need too do it.
stewartb
Expert
What changes in valving did they do on the rears to make such a dramatic improvement? I presume your shocks are double clickers. How do your settings compare before and after the re-valve job?
Stewart
Stewart
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Re: revalve
X2^^^^^^^^^^^
dburu2 said:Pioneer did my floats last year to Apex like specs . The ride was a ton better with no harsh feed back through the bars. I've been running 60# in them ,ran 45# in with the orig. valving. You will have to adjust to your spec. setup. This year had pioneer do the revalve on both susp. shocks.300 mls on so far and what I can tell u so far is the studder bump capabilities are night and day diff. no spanking. I havn't reached the final setup yet because of snow availiblity but I'm very pleased with the results for the cost investment .Still a PIA just because you need too do it.
X2^^^^^^^^^^^
Thx for the feedback guys! I probably should have stated earlier that ride quality isn't my main objective. I just plain need flatter cornering in the twisties going 25-40mph. I need to cut my current inside ski lift in half if possible. BTW- I am hanging my big a$$ off the sides...not just sitting there. Is the sway bar too weak?
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
nytroguy said:I have made other adjustments besides the front shocks. The limiter strap helped but it isn't the answer for me. I just installed new powder hounds with 6"shapers. I want to hear from the guys that re-valved and now have a few rides on them.
What did you change the limiter straps to?
Traildale
Extreme
Just shorten the limiter strap and add some adjustible coupler blocks. ALL the inside ski lift will be gone gone gone.
Seriously. Play with the suspension. Its fun.
Seriously. Play with the suspension. Its fun.
I have moved the front strap 1 and 2 holes, settling on 1. Where do I get the coupler blocks? I would try that in a heartbeat. Thx!
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Ulmer racing makes a set, or you can get a set of Arctic Cat blocks (Off of a 2006 F series) for around $20.
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