crazy canuck
Extreme
Anyone running Mobil 1 0-40W (European Car Formula) synthetic? Been using Amsoil and was wondering how this rated...
Mooseman
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Been running it in my MP and Phazer, no problems. Had the MP's oil analyzed after the end of season oil change, all was good. I've never heard of any oil related failures with it (or any other oil for that matter).
There are lots of discussion threads on oil and usually get pretty heated. These talk about Mobil 1 specifically:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... =oil+mobil
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... =oil+mobil
There are lots of discussion threads on oil and usually get pretty heated. These talk about Mobil 1 specifically:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... =oil+mobil
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... =oil+mobil
Irv
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Been running it for 3 yrs with no issues.
nate007
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I run Mobil 1 0w30 in all mine, and have never had any issues. I honestly think it boils down to your personal preference, what's redilly available, how well/often you service it and how hard you ride.
In my opinion, if you use a well known brand of any kind and stick with it, I doubt you'd have any issues as long as you use the correct weight. I personally think that unless you're riding very early season or late season when the weather is warmer, I would stay away from the 0w40 (unless you have a ton of miles on your sled) and stick with the 0w30 or even 0w20.
In my opinion, if you use a well known brand of any kind and stick with it, I doubt you'd have any issues as long as you use the correct weight. I personally think that unless you're riding very early season or late season when the weather is warmer, I would stay away from the 0w40 (unless you have a ton of miles on your sled) and stick with the 0w30 or even 0w20.
thor452
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x2 my first apex i put 7000 miles on running supertech synthetc yes walmart brand not one issue and i only changed the filter every other year. Thease sleds are not as particuliar as some might lead you to believe.nate007 said:I run Mobil 1 0w30 in all mine, and have never had any issues. I honestly think it boils down to your personal preference, what's redilly available, how well/often you service it and how hard you ride.
In my opinion, if you use a well known brand of any kind and stick with it, I doubt you'd have any issues as long as you use the correct weight. I personally think that unless you're riding very early season or late season when the weather is warmer, I would stay away from the 0w40 (unless you have a ton of miles on your sled) and stick with the 0w30 or even 0w20.
nate007
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Think of how many people with sport bikes that beat the snot out of them and never service them...? I rarely ever see any failures, and they still run hard, so servicing them at all is much of an improvement over some! LOL
Mooseman
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The reason why people run the Mobil 1 0w40 European formula is because of its zinc (ZDDP) content. Most of the regular car oils have less of it due to government regs and/or it affects the catalytic converter.
newfie09xtx
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I choose AMS Oil over mobil 1 because of the higher zinc and phosphurus levels. Am I an expert on this? Not a chance! Just researched and made that decision. If I didnt buy AMS oil it would have been Mobil 1. Basically buy what you like and whatever is available to you.
yzviper366
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I ran mobile 1 0w-20 last year with a ZDDP no problems. this year Ill be running royal purple 0w-20 with a ZDDP adative as well.
nate007
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From what I've experienced during my day job working on older hot rods, the zinc additives are usually advertized to be benificial to older engines, but I don't recall seeing where they are marketed to make a difference on newer stuff?
I think the metalurgy used in modern engines doesnt have the need for the added zinc content, but I'm not sure if there's any drawback to using it? I'll look through some of my vendor information and ask a few questions and report back..
I think the metalurgy used in modern engines doesnt have the need for the added zinc content, but I'm not sure if there's any drawback to using it? I'll look through some of my vendor information and ask a few questions and report back..
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I have been running Mobil 1 as well; 0-30, I agree with Nate007 .
I choose this over Amsoil not for difference in quality but more likely convenience and price- the local parts store, big box store you name it has Mobile 1
I choose this over Amsoil not for difference in quality but more likely convenience and price- the local parts store, big box store you name it has Mobile 1
nate007
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It may sound stupid, but if I'm out of town riding and have a problem where I need to get oil, I don't want to have to switch brands because I can't find what I normally run on a Sunday afternoon miles from home..
Mooseman
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Not a problem because all oils, to meet API standards, must be able to be mixed with other brands. Mixing with a different weight would only affect its viscosity. Some people even mix different weights to achieve an exact viscosity they want but doesn't exist off the shelf. You can even mix synth and non-synth oils although this will affect how long the oil lasts before needing to be changed.
So go ahead and add any good engine oil of an appropriate weight.
So go ahead and add any good engine oil of an appropriate weight.
Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
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Also found this from the API Institute:
http://www.api.org/certification-progra ... H_2013.pdf
"If you find it necessary to mix brands of oil, use the same viscosity grade and API service category to maintain performance"
But, if push comes to shove, you can use another viscosity. I would not go lower than 0w30 as this is the only (thereby lowest) viscosity recommended by Yamaha.For example, I wouldn't go to a 0w or 0w20 as this would be too thin. A thicker viscosity, like 5w30, would it be OK except if you are in very cold climates and it would make the engine harder to crank.
http://www.api.org/certification-progra ... H_2013.pdf
"If you find it necessary to mix brands of oil, use the same viscosity grade and API service category to maintain performance"
But, if push comes to shove, you can use another viscosity. I would not go lower than 0w30 as this is the only (thereby lowest) viscosity recommended by Yamaha.For example, I wouldn't go to a 0w or 0w20 as this would be too thin. A thicker viscosity, like 5w30, would it be OK except if you are in very cold climates and it would make the engine harder to crank.
Irv
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nate007 said:I run Mobil 1 0w30 in all mine, and have never had any issues. I honestly think it boils down to your personal preference, what's redilly available, how well/often you service it and how hard you ride.
In my opinion, if you use a well known brand of any kind and stick with it, I doubt you'd have any issues as long as you use the correct weight. I personally think that unless you're riding very early season or late season when the weather is warmer, I would stay away from the 0w40 (unless you have a ton of miles on your sled) and stick with the 0w30 or even 0w20.
But Yamaha's full synthetic is 0W-40 and is recommended for use in their sleds?
I am curious however, as I have read it many times, if the 40 weight oil does indeed rob a little H/P or some top end MPH?
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