Need a Fuel Pump Relay ASAP Yamaha 8FP-81950-01

[Firemann32]

I need a fuel pump relay for an 07' APex Mtn part # 8FP-81950-01

If anyone knows of an aftermarket one let me know. Stupid thing just quit after changing the oil and relocating the battery.

It Clicks so I have power in but no power out, I meter it at the pump and at the relay.

 

[Mooseman]

Go to local auto parts stores and look up part number 203-0133 from Beck/Arnley. Same size and plug configuration with internal diode. It's used for everything from horn relays to fuel pumps on a variety of vehicles. Just plug that number into Google for a list of vehicles. Dirt cheap too.

Only thing though is that it's a little bigger than the Yamaha part and won't fit in the rubber holder so a zip tie will need to be used. I also put some clear nail polish to seal it up on the sides and bottom (plug end) to keep moisture out which is the problem with the original.

 

[Firemann32]

Thanks man, I picked one up but that didn't fix it.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... 71#1045071

 

[Blue Dave]

Just because it clicks does not mean that you have power to the normally open contacts, it only means that the coil circuit is energized.

The red / green wire feeds power to the relay contacts from a 10 A fuse which is connected directly to the battery at the starter relay. The red /blue wire energizes the pump when the contacts close.

You should have +12 vdc on the red / green all of the time. When the key is on and the kill switch pulled up the relay is energized and you should have +12vdc on the red / blue wire.

 

[Mooseman]

Ok, he got it fixed. Was a wiring problem but this is a good reference for a quick fix replacement relay.

Funny thing, mine froze at the cottage this morning. Although I had one of these relays all ready to go, I had left it at home. Luckily, I also had the old one from my son's Phazer in my pocket. Forgot which one it was so it took a while to find the right one. All good.

 

[Firemann32]

Ok, he got it fixed. Was a wiring problem but this is a good reference for a quick fix replacement relay.

Funny thing, mine froze at the cottage this morning. Although I had one of these relays all ready to go, I had left it at home. Luckily, I also had the old one from my son's Phazer in my pocket. Forgot which one it was so it took a while to find the right one. All good.

Yep, got it fixed, stupid mistake.

I guess I had the cables hooked up wrong on the starter relay, although it's the same as my 660 Raptors and they run fine. I started looking online for pictures and found a pic with the cables still attached. Go figure........two days worth of frustration.

Funny how it would start and run for a second but then die and everything else had power......... you would have thought that the fuel pump would have kicked on while you were cranking it.


Thank you guys for the input and now I have a spare relay and a great reference #

 

[Rich Kay]

Just a FYI....You can open the hood of almost every car or truck and yank a relay out (with same prong layout) and use it on your apex .....Was in a pinch and pulled one out of my F-250 .

 

[Mooseman]

I wonder if Yamaha's relay is just too weak to handle the current? They seem to to be sealed pretty good so I have my doubts it's the moisture. But they are smaller than the automotive ones, which can handle a lot of current from horns, lights and A/C systems. There are some other circuits that use the same relay but we don't hear of any of those failing.

 

[Blue Dave]

I wonder if Yamaha's relay is just too weak to handle the current? They seem to to be sealed pretty good so I have my doubts it's the moisture. But they are smaller than the automotive ones, which can handle a lot of current from horns, lights and A/C systems. There are some other circuits that use the same relay but we don't hear of any of those failing.

It is a known issue with moisture freezing inside of the relay. I personally have never had the problem but plenty of others have.

 

[Phatboyc]

Go to local auto parts stores and look up part number 203-0133 from Beck/Arnley. Same size and plug configuration with internal diode. It's used for everything from horn relays to fuel pumps on a variety of vehicles. Just plug that number into Google for a list of vehicles. Dirt cheap too.

Only thing though is that it's a little bigger than the Yamaha part and won't fit in the rubber holder so a zip tie will need to be used. I also put some clear nail polish to seal it up on the sides and bottom (plug end) to keep moisture out which is the problem with the original.

Thanks for this third relay option Mooseman.

So now we have the new red relay and polaris relay. Waiting to see if they worked the rest of winter.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=117147

Oh and we also have the wrap it in foam which is the cheapest option just not the best looking one.

 

[Phatboyc]

Great news guys its coming this fall!


http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?p=1071784#1071784

 

[Shattered]

Yep, got it fixed, stupid mistake.

I guess I had the cables hooked up wrong on the starter relay, although it's the same as my 660 Raptors and they run fine. I started looking online for pictures and found a pic with the cables still attached. Go figure........two days worth of frustration.

Funny how it would start and run for a second but then die and everything else had power......... you would have thought that the fuel pump would have kicked on while you were cranking it.


Thank you guys for the input and now I have a spare relay and a great reference #

Fireman,
I have the same problem. Starts and runs for a few seconds and shuts down, and I don't hear the fuel pump come on when I turn the key. I replaced the starter relay and then this problem occured.

When you say that you had the cables hooked up the cables wrong, does that mean that you needed to swap them to the opposite terminals on the starter relay? There are two terminals and one goes to the battery, and one goes to the starter. I put the new one in the same way the old one came out, so I didn't think this would be the problem. Since it's a breaker, I wouldn't think there would be any polarity issues. The starter relay is just breaking the circuit between the starter and the battery.

But, I'm not a an electrical engineer and don't know how the internals of the starter relay are set up. Is Does the battery feed the one terminal that in turn feeds power to the fuel pump? If so, that would make sense, because when the relay is open, then the starter side wouldn't be energized, and if the fuel pump is feeding off of the wrong terminal, there won't be any power once you release the key.

I've been thinking about it as I have been typing this, and think that is probably the case. Probably just need to swap starter and battery cables on the starter relay.

 

[earthling]

Fireman hasn't been here since 2014

 

[Shattered]

Fireman hasn't been here since 2014

Right on, thank you.

I probably won't need a reply anyway. The more I think about it, the more I think I just need to switch the starter and battery cables to the opposite starter relay terminals.

When I would keep the key turned in the start position, it would continue to run, but was also energizing the starter. It seemed to be feeding power to the fuel pump so long as I had the starter running. So it would make sense that I have the cables on the wrong terminals.

 

[earthling]

Right on, thank you.

I probably won't need a reply anyway. The more I think about it, the more I think I just need to switch the starter and battery cables to the opposite starter relay terminals.

When I would keep the key turned in the start position, it would continue to run, but was also energizing the starter. It seemed to be feeding power to the fuel pump so long as I had the starter running. So it would make sense that I have the cables on the wrong terminals.

If the sled shuts off after you let go of the key (it starts, you let go as normal) the key switch is not staying in the latched position. That would either be a connection, or a main relay or some niggling fuse somewhere. I have a schematic for an attak here somewhere, I will have a look.