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Oil

These Oil threads are always fun ! 4 strokeluvr is right . On a stock setup I have never heard of an oil related problem. I was running the Mobile 1, 0w/20 and did notice some differences. It would start easier and seemed to run very good. Was it faster like some people say. I don't know it's a Vector . I have changed over to the 0w/40 Euro to get the Zinc levels. https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide-2016.pdf . This is a good guide. I'm hoping to keep the Vector in the family for another 10 years or more for a back up or kids sled. I think most people would like to know where to get a good oil that's not from a dealer because a lot of dealers hold weird hours and Walmart seems to be open all the time..
 

The biggest problem with Amsoil is that it's not readily available. You need to find a local distributor or order online. I can get Yamalube easier. I was running Amsoil in my HD Street Glide and Softail but switched over to Mobil 1, V-twin because there's a Walmart on every corner.
 
grizztracks said:
The biggest problem with Amsoil is that it's not readily available. You need to find a local distributor or order online. I can get Yamalube easier. I was running Amsoil in my HD Street Glide and Softail but switched over to Mobil 1, V-twin because there's a Walmart on every corner.
Click to expand...
one more reason I want to run Mobil 1 have been for years just didn't know if this version of it was okay to run as it was half the price at walmart must not have been selling. I don't ever skimp on things when it comes to the sled especially but on the same hand I'm not opposed to saving a buck if it is without compromise. I will not run non synthetic in her last year I got a free oil change kit from a viper with the semi synthetic Yamalube and I ran that with no problems but didn't like that it was not full synthetic. if the only real concern is with the starter gear bearing seeing as I already did the oil change with this oil over a month ago and I have a spare starter gear sitting on the bench(long story) and it is not that hard to get in there and change it if it goes bad I will run it this year and if I have problems you guys will for sure hear about it.
 
Get some ZDDplus additive and boost the zinc and phosphorous levels. It's not just the starter's one way bearing that's a concern. In the future if you want to run Mobile 1 I'd stick with the 0w-40 full synthetic.
 
grizztracks said:
Get some ZDDplus additive and boost the zinc and phosphorous levels. It's not just the starter's one way bearing that's a concern. In the future if you want to run Mobile 1 I'd stick with the 0w-40 full synthetic.
Click to expand...
any idea where I can find that?
 
The oil thing has been beat to death over and over. I like 0-40 Amsoil have used it forever it seems. I tried Lucas oil 0-40 but I found it slowed the cranking down and seemed to be harder to start in the cold. I went back to Amsoil 0-40.

Oils with friction modifiers are questionable because of the sprag on the starter. In Motorcycles friction modifiers also play hell with the wet clutches, how they are on the starter sprag I don't know, I'll just not take the chance mainly because the sprag as has been said is a one way drive that relies on friction to work. A friction modifier just seems counterproductive in that regard.

Any oil seems to work in our sleds but I avoid friction modifiers and stick to synthetics made from ester base stock oils. Amsoils and Mobile1 are made from ester base stocks. 0-40 Amsoil is designed with our play toys in mind. The Mobile1 pictured is designed for automotive and contains friction modifiers. Will it work in a sled? Yep! Not my choice and I wouldn't use it because of the friction modifiers! If I went to Mobile 1 I would try the 0-40 Mobile1-fs (euroformula). 0-20 just seems a bit thin but some say it frees up a couple hp on top, I worry about those days when the motor is running hot from low snow conditions.

In the end Amsoil and Mobile1 are made from good stock, some synthetics claim to be synthetic but are not, it gets a bit shady on how they can claim to be synthetic. All synthetics are not equal! After that its all about additive packages! Back to the oil in question start of thread. It has a friction modifier package but the Mobile1 5-30 or Mobile 5-30 extended service does not. As Grizz has said the 0-40 Euro is a good choice unless your stuck on 5-30.

I have to go out of my way to find yamalube and in the end I don't even know who makes it. Someone makes and packages it for Yamaha which is fine and if you prefer it to take the guess work out of oil then use it. If you buy it thinking its superior oil, better then the rest you may want to rethink that. Yamalube is sold by Yamaha to make money off the sale same as everything else they sell, but it also has the package that works with the Yamaha sleds. That makes it compatible but not necessarily the best. Use it with no worries but its no better then Mobile1 or Amsoil.

I want to talk about the multigrade oil and packages. Multi grade oil starts out as 0 weight or 5 or 10 and then additives are added to make it act like a 20 or 30 or 40 weight oil when hot. Additive packages break down and wear out with usage. Now they are starting to come out with extended usage oils whats in those packages I don't know. So oil does not wear out, the packages they add do and the oil fills with stuff that is not oil or package. I had a family member that never changed his oil because the motor burned a quart a month so his theory was the oil therefore got changed ever 5 or 6 month's anyway. When the motor finally started knocking he kept driving it with less throttle to keep the knock down. When he did change the motor I opened it up and it was sludge city everywhere, inches of it in the oil pan and the lifter valley was so full I don't know how the oil drained down to the bottom. A few of the rod ends had no bearing at all the crank was turning on the main caps and block. Moral of the story is oil has to be changed and most oils work just fine till change time!
 
Sasquatch said:
The oil thing has been beat to death over and over. I like 0-40 Amsoil have used it forever it seems. I tried Lucas oil 0-40 but I found it slowed the cranking down and seemed to be harder to start in the cold. I went back to Amsoil 0-40.

Oils with friction modifiers are questionable because of the sprag on the starter. In Motorcycles friction modifiers also play hell with the wet clutches, how they are on the starter sprag I don't know, I'll just not take the chance mainly because the sprag as has been said is a one way drive that relies on friction to work. A friction modifier just seems counterproductive in that regard.

Any oil seems to work in our sleds but I avoid friction modifiers and stick to synthetics made from ester base stock oils. Amsoils and Mobile1 are made from ester base stocks. 0-40 Amsoil is designed with our play toys in mind. The Mobile1 pictured is designed for automotive and contains friction modifiers. Will it work in a sled? Yep! Not my choice and I wouldn't use it because of the friction modifiers! If I went to Mobile 1 I would try the 0-40 Mobile1-fs (euroformula). 0-20 just seems a bit thin but some say it frees up a couple hp on top, I worry about those days when the motor is running hot from low snow conditions.

In the end Amsoil and Mobile1 are made from good stock, some synthetics claim to be synthetic but are not, it gets a bit shady on how they can claim to be synthetic. All synthetics are not equal! After that its all about additive packages! Back to the oil in question start of thread. It has a friction modifier package but the Mobile1 5-30 or Mobile 5-30 extended service does not. As Grizz has said the 0-40 Euro is a good choice unless your stuck on 5-30.

I have to go out of my way to find yamalube and in the end I don't even know who makes it. Someone makes and packages it for Yamaha which is fine and if you prefer it to take the guess work out of oil then use it. If you buy it thinking its superior oil, better then the rest you may want to rethink that. Yamalube is sold by Yamaha to make money off the sale same as everything else they sell, but it also has the package that works with the Yamaha sleds. That makes it compatible but not necessarily the best. Use it with no worries but its no better then Mobile1 or Amsoil.

I want to talk about the multigrade oil and packages. Multi grade oil starts out as 0 weight or 5 or 10 and then additives are added to make it act like a 20 or 30 or 40 weight oil when hot. Additive packages break down and wear out with usage. Now they are starting to come out with extended usage oils whats in those packages I don't know. So oil does not wear out, the packages they add do and the oil fills with stuff that is not oil or package. I had a family member that never changed his oil because the motor burned a quart a month so his theory was the oil therefore got changed ever 5 or 6 month's anyway. When the motor finally started knocking he kept driving it with less throttle to keep the knock down. When he did change the motor I opened it up and it was sludge city everywhere, inches of it in the oil pan and the lifter valley was so full I don't know how the oil drained down to the bottom. A few of the rod ends had no bearing at all the crank was turning on the main caps and block. Moral of the story is oil has to be changed and most oils work just fine till change time!
Click to expand...
Thank you I knew you would have some good input on this. do you think adding the zinc will help or is you whole point that the friction modifiers is the only problem?
 
I might add I am not against changing it again if it is no good oil.
 
Mobil 0-40 or Yamalube. My .02 on Amsoil is that it is great if you're into Avon pyramids. I never understood it. The guys over on the Buell board swear the stuff is the golden nectar of the gods (because the mfg uses it.)

Do your research, and use what you have historically used in your other toys and vehicles over the years. Everyone has their own angle on lubrication- the scientific facts are out there that have been verified by countless unbiased labs with data. Yammies are bulletproof- I'm with Jim on it. You can run damn near anything- just not the fuel economy blends. :home::Rockon:
 
Mobile 1 0W40 full synthetic - no issues and you can usually find it on sale for around $7/quart. Don't go cheap on the oil filter either. These engines do need the filter with the internal valve.
 
+1 on the check valve. Dry sump engines rely on them.
 
thor452 said:
Thank you I knew you would have some good input on this. do you think adding the zinc will help or is you whole point that the friction modifiers is the only problem?
Click to expand...

Zinc does no harm! Have no data as to what friction modifiers do to the Sprag only know I avoid it and 18,000 miles with no issues, some have had issues with less miles don't know what oil was used. Use whatever oil you feel comfortable with and if you have to change or rebuild a sprag as per the dog's article its not that hard.
 
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