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Poor milage after ecotrail tune

K

Kuzzy

Expert
Joined
Dec 6, 2020
Messages
442
Age
43
Location
saskatchewan
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2020 yamaha sidewinder xtx se
2022 STX GT
2017 King Cat M9000
Had an ecotrail tune put on my 2020 xtx se at the very end of last season (stock muffler, cai), didn't run it until this year. Dealer installed Dalton's and a yamaha white spring, clutching is a bit "squeaky" at times, but seems ok. I also installed a turbosmart bov before running the tune.

I have about 800km on it this year. First time out fuel milage seemed fine, but the last few times out, I seem to be using anywhere from 3L to 6L more than the stock sidewinder I use to be within a half litre of.

Turbo side is throwing way more heat, there is a faint smell of fuel, maybe overfueling? The temp outside has been unusually warm this season, so at first I suspected that was the issue, but now when comparing to the stock sidewinder over 800km, I don't think the outside temp is the issue.

Anything I should be looking for? Clutching eating more fuel? Just looking for a direction to start problem solving.
 

My eco tune 265 when i had was better than stock... even better than 850 poo and doo by 5 ltrs on a near full tank ride.
 
Boost leaks? exhaust leaks? Check the small hoses with the green pinch clamps up front under fuse block. Also the clamps including the throttle bodies. exhaust bolts all snug? You do know you have a boost gauge with this tune? Its the hour meter when the sled is running.. I would be watching this.. Any chance you have a boost leak tester?
The clutching would have to be way out in left field for that much fuel. Does it pull RPM? Like 8700 or higher?
Yamaha white spring?
 
I also ran eco trail for a few thousand miles on my 2017 and would match a viper at the pump. Somethings is off
 
I do not have a boost leak tester, looking like I'll have to make one. I have a boost gauge on the Ns1 gauge, but it is normally in the negative. It takes quite a bit to get it into the positive and with the Crappy grooming this year, I've only been able to hold it open for a small bit but thought I saw 16.2. I did tighten all the clamps, but I must be missing something...... Of course I haven't touched the throttle bodies yet, sure hoping that isn't it lol
 
I would try going back to your stock clutch components. Low engagement and low cruising rpms make for good mpg!

What’s your engagement at?
 
Motorhead said:
I would try going back to your stock clutch components. Low engagement and low cruising rpms make for good mpg!

What’s your engagement at?
Click to expand...
Not sure offhand, pretty low, probably as low as stock. Unfortunately Im just learning about clutching so I am a bit reluctant to just jump in and swap out the spring. I'm still trying to figure out what all the different holes and wraps mean lol

There is the possibility the clutching is not very good, but I think the hot muffler might be the clue I first follow. I may be wrong, but a boost leak might make it behave the way it is
 
Last edited:
Here is my screen shot of my data log. I can send a CSV file to anybody willing to look at my log. I did nearly hit 9k rpm, and for the first time I saw the gauges flash that it was pulling timing. I still need to investigate what primary arms are weighed at. From the info I've gotten from here, I'm not supposed to be able to hit 8900 rpm if the timing chain jumped.... Maybe a sensor?
 

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Kuzzy said:
Here is my screen shot of my data log. I can send a CSV file to anybody willing to look at my log. I did nearly hit 9k rpm, and for the first time I saw the gauges flash that it was pulling timing. I still need to investigate what primary arms are weighed at. From the info I've gotten from here, I'm not supposed to be able to hit 8900 rpm if the timing chain jumped.... Maybe a sensor?
Click to expand...
Gauge flashing is knock and don’t want that. Lots can go on with timing before the knock light. Look at your data log with timing retard turned on (you can select this from current log). And if you have afr setup look at that on log as well, this may be most helpful figuring out your fuel mileage.
Also as mentioned could try all stock clutching, with stock muffler and eco tune rpms should be fine.
 
Last edited:
0degC said:
Gauge flashing is knock and don’t want that. Lots can go on with timing before the knock light. Look at your data log with timing retard turned on (you can select this from current log). And if you have afr setup look at that on log as well, this may be most helpful figuring out your fuel mileage.
Also as mentioned could try all stock clutching, with stock muffler and eco tune rpms should be fine.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I don't have an option to select retard timing, this log is from a ns1 gauge set. I'm not 100% sure I trust the afr value since I don't have an O2 sensor installed.

The graphed values I can show are on the screen shot. I do have a data log with numbers that can be read on a spreadsheet, if anybody is willing to look at it, I can email it. It actually turns out that every time I go for a run, it automatically data logs, which I just found out
 
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