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Suspension settings, RTX ONLY


Just the rear arm. Front mount points are same on them. I had the two skids sitting side by side last winter so I saw the difference. Never measured till now. I looked at mine last night and I don't think I will be able to do what I want since the rail has a cutout right where the bolt for rear arm would need to be. If you look at what it would do is the scissor would be closed more. This would make the back lower and put more leverage on the rear shock from the suspension. Short of getting different rails only thing that can do is shock valving but it will never be the same as 12 without moving that arm.
I really wonder if what they did was a result of so many people who freaked out because there sleds had 3-4in of what felt like nothing as far as dampening and spring pressure. Hear it all the time on cats and Yamahas. On a 12 cat if you take the skid out with springs unhooked and push the rear arm down it will stay there. On ours just the nitrogen pressure of shock is enough to hold it up forcefully. When you push it down it is as if you are directly compressing shock.
 
Wish we had snow to actually ride mine and give a review of the complete revalved package with softer torsions, granted it's an ltx and not an rtx but were trying to accomplish the same thing. As far as the ltx skid there really is no place to move anything since there are so many holes in the rails, nether the linkage or the shocks can be moved cuz there's no place to mount them with the rail style. One guy in our grouped looked at doing exactly what you're talking of doing to his ltx but same thing, no where to mount it other than stock settings
 
Yes I wish it weren't so but getting perfect valving is all that can be done. Remember how many optional mounting holes used to be in cat skids? Is a shame they went away from that. I am fairly happy with my valving now. Just don't like the "hot rod" position sled is in unless I am hard on the gas. Should transfer with less throttle than it does now.
 
Again this isn't a ride review by no means, but I had mine on the grass a few weeks ago and it settles in more than it ever did last year, and I rode on bare grass with it last year too, the ltx will never have any risk of coming up over or even close to that which is great, the flatter the sled stays the better, but I do agree that the ride can be made better if u can get some sag in the suspension to begin with
 
Yup I think I will have my shock revalved by Carver or someone else than me. I did it twice now and although better still isn't where I want it. If that doesn't cut it I will just get a Axis rear shock.
 
I just recieved all four valve stacks from Carver for both rear shocks. BIG changes in valving and the bleed hole dia for rear shock. I also ordered a Axis rear shock from HyGear to cover any downtime I may have playing with the shocks. Got to have something to compare to!

I shortened up some shocks from a 15 600xc race sled this weekend. Some observations. Yes they have plastic knobs. No hi/lo. Fox has made the compression bottle cap almost impossible to remove. Good luck getting the clip out! Any tips? Also check out first shim. Nice way of tuning bleed without drilling!
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I had Fox Midwest do mine. It took longer than expected. Not sure why, but they treated me right. I do have a concern over a ding on the Evol body (upper sleeve) about 3/8" from the top.
 
They look good. Hope all you RTX guys use this area to post setup specs. Lot of people just don't seem to have time to tune and really are missing the whole value of these shocks.
 
2015 RTX LE with Float Evols and Zero Pro's upgraded to DSC

Initial settings:

Front:
Main psi 85, Evol 180
HSC 4 clicks in, LSC 4 clicks in, rebound 4 clicks in

Skid:
Front shock spring
.375" thread exposed between rings and cap
HSC 4 clicks in, LSC 4 clicks in

Rear shock:
HSC 4 clicks in, LSC 4 clicks in Rebound 2 clicks in

24 clicks total available on the DSC valves and 19 on the rebound

Rear springs on cam #1 Rear pops right up to the transfer stop rod.

At about 220# (no gear) sit in sag is about 2.5" measured at the end of the tunnel flare sheet metal.


I am starting with relatively high pressure settings and minimal damping and will work from there. I only have a flat field to play in for now. There are some combine ruts that I may be able to test on, but I think they may be be too dangerous.
 
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Rode adout 400 miles last year in total stock form.
This is the setup so far for this year. Have zero miles on it
14 RTX
Simmons flext skis with 4" studboy shapers inside and outside
3 studs per row on the track
Front shocks set at 65 lbs, hygear dual pressure rez set at 150
Rear shocks untouched
Rear springs on softest setting
Limiter pulled up 1 hole from stock
Transfer set on 2
 
Carver valving and mod is now in rear shocks. Stock springs going back in with stock limiter strap position of all the way out.

Observations:
Water is a BIG issue especially in front skid shock. Any water makes the shock very sticky and hugely affects rebound. This seal system sucks and is worst I have ever seen for water contamination. Looking for aftermarket seals such as Tech Syn. If you get your shocks revalved or refreshed demand different seals. Even if water is not in the oil it can still be in between seals. Not a good design.
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Evol X front shocks
Main chamber 50psi
Evol chamber 100psi
Compression clicker at full soft
Rebound set in middle
Rear shock at full soft w/rebound set in middle
Front shock compression full soft
Limiter straps in stock position
Transfer blocks on #1
Rear springs on soft
I like to start out on soft and work my way up if need be,only have 7miles on it but so far it feels good,also 6ft 190lbs no gear on,I will update as soon as the trails open and can actually get some real seat time on it
 
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