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Tapp blowing belts compared to stock primary

I'm guessing that Bob may run a track that doesn't have studs perhaps and spins more, I say this because I believe he drag races on a snow track from what I've seen where studs will do nothing. When you load the driveline if you are floating the secondary and its floated outward, it will stay stuck outward until you take the load off of it, I dont care how easily it moves and the shaft is greased up. You can easily see this on the track dyno or using the brake on the stand to load the clutches if you look at the secondary. Track slippage like you get in snow may allow the clutch to float easier inward is my guess, but do whatever works for you and prevents belts from breaking. The thing is, different conditions will require different setups, so what works for one may not work for all obviously.
Funny you brought this up Mike as I was going to post this caviate on my setup.
You are 100% right on this. I don't run studs and ride and race on a 1 3/4" track on hard pack and snow. I am rarely getting 100% traction which as we all know does not load the drive train anywhere near as hard as a properly studded track that hooks hard. My setup is much more forgiving and easier on drive components....another reason I have never had a belt issue.
 

Has anyone run a TAPP with the ADAPT secondary? I am curious to know the offset spec. Would it be the same as the Team secondary? Also, which spring seems to work best? Blue, Brown, or Black?
 
If you're asking about the TAPP springs it depends on how you want your engagement. The Black spring is recommended and it works fine, but I swapped it out for the Red spring to raise engagement and get a little more back shift.

Blue 100 - 190lbs 2.32 X 4.45"
Black 140 - 210lbs 2.32 X 5.63"
Red 160 - 270lbs 2.37 x 4.93”
 
If you're asking about the TAPP springs it depends on how you want your engagement. The Black spring is recommended and it works fine, but I swapped it out for the Red spring to raise engagement and get a little more back shift.

Blue 100 - 190lbs 2.32 X 4.45"
Black 140 - 210lbs 2.32 X 5.63"
Red 160 - 270lbs 2.37 x 4.93”
Thanks for the info.

I played with the ADAPT this year with the stock secondary. Next season I will use my TAPP and a Ron Ward set up on the secondary.
 
Thanks for the info.

I played with the ADAPT this year with the stock secondary. Next season I will use my TAPP and a Ron Ward set up on the secondary.
The Yamaha secondary works well if you can get your hands on one
 
The Yamaha secondary works well if you can get your hands on one
I used a Pro 4 with a TAPP on my 1100. They worked nice together. Getting a Yamaha secondary for my 998 may not be a bad idea. It would cost much less than a STM and there is a boatload of set up information on this site.
 
Has anyone run a TAPP with the ADAPT secondary? I am curious to know the offset spec. Would it be the same as the Team secondary? Also, which spring seems to work best? Blue, Brown, or Black?
adapt secondary sheave measures .200 thick and team boss measures .180, account for the different sheave thickness and all else should be same as team boss secondary

Rons secondary setup works great on adapt, its literally perfect!
 
Believe its the same secondary setup he used in boss, HT7 helix with black/lime middle hole. Played around with some other springs and ended right back at his suggested setup. Works great, awesome trail setup.
 
Specs on "HT7" helix?
Specs on "black/lime" spring?
 
Specs on "HT7" helix?
Specs on "black/lime" spring?
Dont know the helix angles, its a dalton labeled as HT7 and black/lime is dalton spring....110/174......older cat torsion spring pre 2005
 
adapt secondary sheave measures .200 thick and team boss measures .180, account for the different sheave thickness and all else should be same as team boss secondary

Rons secondary setup works great on adapt, its literally perfect!
Thank you for the info. Ron Ward does his homework.
Dont know the helix angles, its a dalton labeled as HT7 and black/lime is dalton spring....110/174......older cat torsion spring pre 2005
The best I can figure messing around with my angle gauge is that the HT7 is about 3 - 4 degrees less that the stock helix.
 
Its wrapped pretty light on the cat clutches with the torsion conversion. Not 100% sure it would hinder top end much if any over the compression spring. We ran out of snow of course but was doing some testing with a few different springs as well as Rons helix with factory compression spring and ended right back at black/lime as it seemed to mph the best but would need a better winter to be absolutely confident and was also experimenting a bit with weight placement and ran out of winter.
 
Thank you for the info. Ron Ward does his homework.

The best I can figure messing around with my angle gauge is that the HT7 is about 3 - 4 degrees less that the stock helix.
Best I could tell was the finish was very close to the factory 49 and slightly less start than the factory. Whatever it is, it works well. I have never cared much for the “feel” of the compression setups unless conditions are perfect. Torsional for me was very noticable regardless of helix used and I always end up back at torsional. So smooth and electric feeling. Whatever rons using netted the best results for me all the way through the shift. The 58/49.15 works good with the torsional as well but Rons helix was a bit quicker all around and more consistant and secondary was cooler so im gonna leave that clutch alone. Not saying its the best in the world as anything can be improved but great all around setup.
 


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