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To Tune right out of the crate, or wait?

sheetwright

Northwoods Snowmobiling Facebook
Joined
Jul 7, 2008
Messages
2,242
Location
Northwoods USA
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2021 Yamaha SRX
Alright I spring ordered a 2021 SRX. I'm going to be adding some goodies to the sled. I recently have heard that you do not need to wait till the 500 mile break in is done. How many of you waited to tune your Sidewinders, and how many of you didn't? Anyone run into any issues doing your mods right out of the box? Last time I waited when I built my 2017. This time because of limited riding time, I'm thinking of pushing my luck. My plan is as follows:
* multi map bundle from Turbo dynamics. Mainly running max spool 17 95% of the time
* 3" Viney fab exhaust
* New gap cold air intake
* New charge tubes
* 3 bar map sensor
* upgraded BOV
* jukebox dash cluster
* Dalton clutching, with different springs and helix
The track will be getting swapped out for a 1.25 ripsaw II with 1.63 studs


Still deciding if I want to go with the header and the adjustable fuel regulator or not. Big dollars......
 

I would say this depends on how good your dealer is with warranty claims. I know many that have tuned from new with zero issues. 500 Miles makes sense because if there are any manufacturing defects, it will not be blamed on the tune. There have been some issues with cylinder heads and turbos.
 
I waited on all my winders at least until it had 500-700 miles to bring it in the shop anyway for oil change and a once over. If your changing the track , I would tack weld the chain tensioner screws and toss the stock bearing and put in a FAG Bearing on the disc side, add either a BOP locker or spray weld shaft to fit size on size. I would also dump that vent line off the new roll over out under the sled and not in the air box.. also go over every clamp and tighten them 2 or 3 more turns.
 
I waited till I had a little bit of mileage just because I wanted to make sure the sled wasnt plagued with any weird issues that could be blamed on the tune. Once I rode it a few hundred miles And verified everything seemed to be all set and working as it should be I went ahead and flashed it.
 
Ditto as justinator. I think I rode 300 miles to be sure there were no major issues (I had zero) and then flashed it up to 280.
 
I had to wait for a season on my 2017. I had really bad fuel mileage problems and could not imagine getting a tune and worse mileage. Dealer said that I should be getting much better then I was, but I needed time to bring it in which was tough back then, between riding time and work. Once they fixed my prob I had the dealer set me up with my first of three TD tunes. More problems with sled not starting when cold and also running really FAT. Stained my exhaust side stickers a dark dark brown and it backfired a lot. More warranty work to straighten it out again and then Max Spool 16 tunes. Has run flawless for the past 2 seasons. Dealer has flashed mine 3 times and he backs his stuff thank god! Just a great dealer who has always enjoyed modding! He has that passion and that means a lot to me. Not one of these dealers that shy away from go fast parts and tech. But very happy I waited to try it out prior.
 
I waited until my warranty expired.

I wish I would have tuned it sooner. It's a hoot with Max Spool 16.
 
Thanks guy's... think I will order the part's and just wait to install the weekend after the first U.P trip. Good time to buy with the TD summer discount code and stronger U.S dollar. Waiting makes sense, especially with this COVID-19 stuff. You never know how manufacturing quality will be if there is a lack of employees, happy safe employees, or shortened deadlines to deal with at the plant. Makes sense to wait just in case there are bugs to work out from the factory. Think I will do the track, studs, bearings, and gearing before the first trip and hold off on the TD install from there.
Thanks guys
Stay safe & ride hard
 
Good plan I would wait 1000 miles if you can take it. Seems like most issues will pop up before then. I went 180 miles and it wasn't enough to find that cracked cylinder head. Its also fun to compare stock to tuned I think the smile factor is higher :)
 
I waited on all my winders at least until it had 500-700 miles to bring it in the shop anyway for oil change and a once over. If your changing the track , I would tack weld the chain tensioner screws and toss the stock bearing and put in a FAG Bearing on the disc side, add either a BOP locker or spray weld shaft to fit size on size. I would also dump that vent line off the new roll over out under the sled and not in the air box.. also go over every clamp and tighten them 2 or 3 more turns.
Hey Tom, why did you change the ROV vent line to out under the sled and not into the airbox? Did you have to get a new line or was it long enough. Not sure yet as my sled is still in the crate.
 
Hey Tom, why did you change the ROV vent line to out under the sled and not into the airbox? Did you have to get a new line or was it long enough. Not sure yet as my sled is still in the crate.

I put in a catch can but anyone else could just extend it and run it out under sled.. it pushes all kinds of oil mist into the air-box and drips out on clutch cover and creates a mess.
 
Yes, AND all that oil mist and condensation goes through turbo AND ends up going into the engine! Personally, I don't want my engine eating all that crud or having my turbo having to gobble it either. Been running bypass almost since day 1. Intact tract is spotless after 5100 miles. I know some guys need the ROV. Glad I'm not one of them.
 
Fuel regulator is cheap...wouldn't skip it personally. Can adjust the fuel pressure for bad air when in kill mode...
 


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