Turbo viper tips

[TurboJamie]

Ordered a Hallman with cockpit control. Thanks TJ for the idea.

Nice! I saw those the other day.

 

[Yamadog]

Great thread! Dang you guys may cost me some more $ someday.

Once ou go BOOST you'll never go back

 

[RTX Meirda]

Sled works great in the midrange. I need to work on the clutching. Revs about 8500 and sometimes drops to 8300 on a packed snow covered lake. Top end seems lacking at the moment.

 

[TurboJamie]

Are you spinning when it drops? You can try a little more secondary wrap.

 

[RTX Meirda]

No, not spinning when it drops. It would happen at say 80mph.

 

[TurboJamie]

No, not spinning when it drops. It would happen at say 80mph.

How much twist on your secondary now?

You can bump it 10* most likely cure it.

What clutching now in yours?

**Edit**

Here is how we did the turbosmart boost controller

 

[BADSLED]

Nicely done Jamie! even matching colors...

 

[RTX Meirda]

Might have been the conditions. Revs are up today and higher top speeds on the trail before I had to let off compared to the lake at WOT.

Here is my manual boost controller if it shows up in the picture.

 

[YamahaTim]

I'm kind of having that same thing happen, sometimes mine will turn 8900-9000 rpm's and haul #*$&@ and sometimes even on the same day it will completely change and I will only turn 8200-8300 rpm's. Same AFR numbers same temp and boost is a little lower cause I'm not turning the same RPM's. Now can anyone figure that out? Oh and I'm going through belts when it does that. I can feel it binding or slipping when I'm only turning low rpm's, but when I'm running high rpm's it rips and I don't feel any binding or slipping and I don't go through belts. If anyone can explain that I will be amazed!!

 

[TurboJamie]

Air temp changes = power changes. Manual boost control lets you add back the boost loss due to bad air.

When you say going through belts do you mean blowing them?

Ours now has 3000 miles on the same belt.

 

[YamahaTim]

Air temp changes = power changes. Manual boost control lets you add back the boost loss due to bad air.

When you say going through belts do you mean blowing them?

Ours now has 3000 miles on the same belt.

My boost reads 6 pounds when good rpm's when low rpm's it reads 5.5 pounds. So a 1/2 pound of boost is not going to change that much, plus I can feel it slipping or what ever it's doing when it's running low rpm's. When rpm's are good I don't feel any slipping or what ever. And I'm blowing them. I know they should last, but I have something wrong with the primary or the secondary. Not the springs or weights or helix. Something is going on and it sucks!

 

[TurboJamie]

Mind posting your clutch setup it will help greatly diagnose the situation.

 

[allyammies]

It seems it is the same on non boosted also. Spent 4 days up north could not get it to rev over 8600 rode yesterday at home was running 8800 to 9030 weird

 

[stingray719]

It seems it is the same on non boosted also. Spent 4 days up north could not get it to rev over 8600 rode yesterday at home was running 8800 to 9030 weird

I have a post about clutches last week. Matt from MPI suggested using 8FS Nytro Mountain weights and that is what I will be trying this weekend. 8FS has flat profile so the weight can be heavier causing more belt pressure if I remember right. Should slow upshift too which is what I want.

 

[matt@mpi]

It seems it is the same on non boosted also. Spent 4 days up north could not get it to rev over 8600 rode yesterday at home was running 8800 to 9030 weird

I have a post about clutches last week. Matt from MPI suggested using 8FS Nytro Mountain weights and that is what I will be trying this weekend. 8FS has flat profile so the weight can be heavier causing more belt pressure if I remember right. Should slow upshift too which is what I want.

Bill we like the 8FS weights but for the sea level guys we can't get them heavy enough. We do make a 7.0 gram brass rivet for those who can get the factory weights heavy enough.