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WARNING REPLACING CAM CHAIN TENSIONER

Dmaxxer said:
I will be replacing my tensioner this weekend and probably donuts. How hard is it to get the rear motor mount spacer out??? The rest seems easy.

If you make your own special socket like Grizz shows in his tutorial, it's not that bad at all. The worst for me was the lower tensioner bolt. Since the chain jumped time on me, I got some practice taking the new tensioner out a couple times :o| . I found it easiest to use a universal on the socket, then a 12" extension (all 1/4" drive) and go straight in through the steering column/exhaust donut area to reach the lower bolt. Good luck - it's not all that bad a job and it was rewarding doing it myself. Thanks again to Grizz for his great write up on this!! :Rockon:
 

The spacer is normally not a problem. Remove the long bolt then back out the spacer by turning it CCW, lift the engine high enough so that the engine mount is above the spacer then turn the spacer CW to remove it. I give it a spray of penetrating oil and normally can turn it with my fingers. When using the socket to turn it be careful of the threads in the side plate. Damaging them can make it difficult to get the spacer back in. The exhaust hanger and clamp bolts are giving people problems and getting the tensioner bolts in and out can be difficult. The exhaust bolts require a 6 mm allen and it's important to get the heads of the bolts cleaned out so that the allen socket fits them. If you don't get the socket fully inserted you'll strip the allen head. Get yourself a hand held screw impact driver for the hanger bolts and they will come right out. The driver doesn't work to well on the exhaust clamp bolts because of clearance and the fact that they want to spin on the pipe. I back the clamp with a small pry bar then use a hammer to tap the socket into the allen head. Normally the clamps are loose enough to reposition them enough to spray the bolts with penetrating oil before removal. I've done many of these with no problems.

I also have had a problem with the chain jumping the intake gear when rotating the engine for the first time. The new tensioner doesn't take up all the slack until you roll the engine which allows the chain to skip on the gear. If this happens the tensioner will need removed again to reset the marks. To prevent this I've been using several tie straps to hold the chain in place while rotating the engine for the first time. Place a tie on each gear as far to the left as possible then rotate the engine CW until the ties need to be removed to continue the rotation, retie the gear again to the left and cut off the first set then continue the rotation. Repeat this until one revolution has been made. The tensioner should be fully adjusted and all the slack gone. With all the tie straps off rotate the engine a few more revolutions and recheck your marks.
 
Well I did the cam chain tensioner swap and i have to say the worst part of the whole thing was getting the old gasket off and the lower bolt. Almost thought I had a Cat for a minute. Just a reminder for anyone else doing this procedure make sure to take the rubber washers off of the valve cover after the bolts are removed because I lost one. I eventually found it but wasn't sure if it had fallen into the motor or not.
 
Dmaxxer said:
Well I did the cam chain tensioner swap and i have to say the worst part of the whole thing was getting the old gasket off and the lower bolt. Almost thought I had a Cat for a minute. Just a reminder for anyone else doing this procedure make sure to take the rubber washers off of the valve cover after the bolts are removed because I lost one. I eventually found it but wasn't sure if it had fallen into the motor or not.

Oh, yes that happend to me after I set the cover down on my garage floor upside down...one rolled away somewhere but found it eventually. Good suggestion!
 
that's why i mentioned it earlier. i lost one off the cover while doing my brothers. it fell onto one of the hoses and got caught on a squeeze clamp tab, couldn't do that again if i tried. of course i didn't see it and couldn't find it for about 15 minutes cursing and thinking the whole time i'm gonna hafta go digging in the engine. and yes getting the last little bits of tensioner gasket off was a PITA. still it's nice to know the valves aren't gonna go crashing into the pistons.
 


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