rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,356
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Sorry, I have the exact problem myself on my 07 Apex, with no solution so far.
losing my mind, snow is melting. have check so far
coil packs,
plugs
Co set to -20
went 1/2 turn on throttle body adjustment (mechanical) and check to make sure two halves set correct.
tps is at 16 /96
air box temp sensor shows correct static ohms.
Idle is a little high under normal riding conditions, once I lite the fire for a while, hard on throttle, and the temps get up, it will either idle at 1000 or stall, have to use throttle to start.
shitty thing is, my sled has been doing the same thing. So, I don't even have a known sled to swap parts from.
It only does this when hot.
It has a small exhaust leak at the center, I would think this might do something but when I bought my sled, it had a couple broken head pipes and it ran great, idled great.
coil packs,
plugs
Co set to -20
went 1/2 turn on throttle body adjustment (mechanical) and check to make sure two halves set correct.
tps is at 16 /96
air box temp sensor shows correct static ohms.
Idle is a little high under normal riding conditions, once I lite the fire for a while, hard on throttle, and the temps get up, it will either idle at 1000 or stall, have to use throttle to start.
shitty thing is, my sled has been doing the same thing. So, I don't even have a known sled to swap parts from.
It only does this when hot.
It has a small exhaust leak at the center, I would think this might do something but when I bought my sled, it had a couple broken head pipes and it ran great, idled great.
snowdust
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I researched this forever as well and my next step was to clean the idle air control valve. I never did it but some had success with that solving the issue. In my case the co did help some but not enough.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So I have found that I can make the sled do this when the temperature hits about 150deg, (445ohm) on the sensor. so temp sensor being unhooked forces the computer into limp mode which goes to a default rich setting. Thus curing the lean stall completely while it is unplugged only. But it is a confirmation of lean stall, not timing, as well as confirmation that the sled mechanically can idle perfectly with a bit more fuel. Shop has been swamped this week with windshields so no time to tinker on it. Tomorrow I have a couple things to check out, barometer for one, map for two. I have a new take off map but no extra barometers so just a ohms test, hot and cold. They have a hole where they sample, I am going to take it off and clean it as well. Hoping maybe belt dust is getting in it.
an update on the motor. I tried a few extra barometers and map sensors and was about to start trying harness, and a cdi box and other parts. nothing worked, I bought the sled from my friend and junked it. now another friend has put it in his. So we have changed out the complete sled on the motor.
Friend blew his up, put this same motor in his chassis. The only electrics that were left on the motor was the stator and cam sensor. guess what, it stalls when warmed up. talk about a change of parts. So for now I think he is going to change out the stator. I wonder if though they may read correct ohms, they may have some other issue that effects it enough when the sled leans out for warm idle settings from the factory, it stalls. Shot in the dark. anyone try a stator? I'll report back with what he found. Glad to get the dam thing off the floor and out the way.
Friend blew his up, put this same motor in his chassis. The only electrics that were left on the motor was the stator and cam sensor. guess what, it stalls when warmed up. talk about a change of parts. So for now I think he is going to change out the stator. I wonder if though they may read correct ohms, they may have some other issue that effects it enough when the sled leans out for warm idle settings from the factory, it stalls. Shot in the dark. anyone try a stator? I'll report back with what he found. Glad to get the dam thing off the floor and out the way.
Rtbo
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2016
- Messages
- 406
- Location
- N Syracuse
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 23 SRX
- LOCATION
- N Syracuse
I haven’t read the whole thread but I bet you just have to adjust the valves, it about that time. Don’t mess around with co settings or idle, it’s just masking the problem.
Adjust the idle up , black knob . I turned mine almost 2 full turns and it stopped right away ! On a warm engine , idle will be higher on a cold start but it’s not bad.worked for me and a friend of mine .Will get you by for a awhile if you don’t want to spend the money on valve adj . Can be $1000-$1500 around here .
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,356
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
If valve clearance is tight it will get worse when the engine warms up as clearance may get to zero gap.
Than you will have compression loss, will show up on a compression test on a warm engine.
Of all the motors I have wrenched on most have a few valves with below spec clearance, typically on the intake side.
Remember to adjust valve clearance to upper end of the spec as turbo engines runs hotter than N/A engines.
Than you will have compression loss, will show up on a compression test on a warm engine.
Of all the motors I have wrenched on most have a few valves with below spec clearance, typically on the intake side.
Remember to adjust valve clearance to upper end of the spec as turbo engines runs hotter than N/A engines.
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