Breaking in a new Apex

[Daranello]

i dont hammer it....its a slow gradual increase to full RPM;s then compression down then back up again...every 10miles I put on the sled it got faster and faster...when I had my Nytro (in stock condition) it was faster than my buddy's F7 and a 2006 Apex RTX..so its upto ya...the sleds I break in are always fast

 

[Mighty]

I'm betting I have bought and sold more apex's on this site than anyone else. The slowest one was a 40th anniversary owned by an 70 something gentleman that said he followed the manual. The canuk I sold it too varified how slow it was claiming it was the slowest by far of all the apex's in his riding group.

 

[ecopter]

OK. I broke in my '06 Attak and '11 Apex by the manual. Neither use oil and both are the stongest of the pack. Fast machines. Don't imply that you'll only get a fast sled by breaking it in hard. It's simply un proven rhetoric.

 

[thor452]

actualy there are published reports with torn down motors that prove a "hard" break in as discribed by some on this post is the best for the motor according to the published report you should allow the motor to get up to full opperating temp and then do a long hard pull under load (best done by a dyno) and then let off and let cool and do it again not just jam her and go but a real calculated under load run. the reason is that you only get one chance to seat the rings once you have worn off the initial ruffness of the cylinder walls and piston rings you can do what ever you want till your blue in the face and there will be little to no change in the matting surfaces between the rings and the cylinder wall. if you polish them in properly under as heavy of a load as you can they will be near perfectly mated to each other. this was a report on race bikes and they tore the motors down to show the diffrence between the "soft " and "hard" break in.

 

[Mighty]

actualy there are published reports with torn down motors that prove a "hard" break in as discribed by some on this post is the best for the motor according to the published report you should allow the motor to get up to full opperating temp and then do a long hard pull under load (best done by a dyno) and then let off and let cool and do it again not just jam her and go but a real calculated under load run. the reason is that you only get one chance to seat the rings once you have worn off the initial ruffness of the cylinder walls and piston rings you can do what ever you want till your blue in the face and there will be little to no change in the matting surfaces between the rings and the cylinder wall. if you polish them in properly under as heavy of a load as you can they will be near perfectly mated to each other. this was a report on race bikes and they tore the motors down to show the diffrence between the "soft " and "hard" break in.

I have heard and read the same thing over and over