Start with draining engine oil from tank using drain bolt. Then removal of silencer and reverse servo and extension. Remove screw at footwell that holds belly pan side in place.
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Remove oil lines from oil tank. I found removal easiest at these spots. You also need to remove the clamp that is used to hold lines in place at lower silencer mount.
Loosen all screws about this far. Don't remove them yet. Don't forget bottom two.
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Pull tank/chaincase cover straight out up against screws you loosened and let it drain. I used a big catch bin under sled. Between oil lines and chaincase oil it will be a mess. Once drained fully remove all screws and remove tank/cover assembly as one unit.
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Watch for this washer.
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Previously I just used a evacuator to suck oil out. That works fine but now with 3000 more miles since I wanted to clean and inspect. This is what I found. Not bad. This is normal for the mileage.
Issue. This is a Babbit bearing in top main gear. It is wore. The little teeth mesh with the sliding splined top gear to drive sled forward. In the cats this wear in top gear bearing led to the little teeth not engaging the sliding top gear properly nicking the little teeth and leading to failure of the gears. Now don't panic because even though the bearing is shot there is absolutely no nicks or damage to the little teeth on either gear. They must have improved the hardness of gears. I need to decide whether to replace this top gear as a proactive measure or just keep riding and see what happens.
Visually if the grey Babbit material is gone it is wore. You can also clean and put it back on shaft to feel,see and hear the play. There is no specs for wear that I could find. I will do same with a new gear as a test.
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1028479483844970&set=vb.100000487846099&type=2&theater
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1028479483844970&set=vb.100000487846099&type=2&theater
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bleedyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Master
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- 2017 Yamaha Sidewinder Rtx Le 2012 Yamaha Vector Ltx
Cannondale I am starting to think you are OCD or you have way to much time on your hand. Just joking I just think you like to tinker in things and disect them to make sure they work properly.Thank you for all your info.!!!Visually if the grey Babbit material is gone it is wore. You can also clean and put it back on shaft to feel,see and hear the play. There is no specs for wear that I could find. I will do same with a new gear as a test.
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1028479483844970&set=vb.100000487846099&type=2&theater
Definitely not enough time so......
This is the pan I used and needed every inch.
larrypolaris
Expert
Thanks cannondale. Nice write up. I am thinking of doing my chaincase inspection too.
I would throw a new gear in. Those bushings are known to wear. One of the manufacturers of stronger than stock gears also stocks new bushings to replace in his top gear when they get worn.
Nice pics and write up
Nice pics and write up
sxr70001
Lifetime Member
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- Sidewinder LTX SE
SR Viper RTX SE
Good job. I wish you would have written this two weeks ago.
I found a flex shaft worked well for some of those hard to get at torx screws.
I found a flex shaft worked well for some of those hard to get at torx screws.
Thanks guys. I ordered a new gear and if it fits tighter will turn it into warranty so Yamaha knows about it at least. I will measure both with snap gauges and a micrometer to try generating some specs.
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