Yamadog
Lifetime Member
Most likely the jets, that's why I gave up after yrs of rx's both N/A and turbo'd I would clean them and they would sit in shop for a week drive to the UP and same deal rpms hang and no start the vacuum caused pushes the slides up lifting the needles causing the rpms to hang about 2000 ish.
Brudulje
Newbie
All the o-rings looked like this, i have bought new, and cleaned the jets. Hope this helps
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Yamadog
Lifetime Member
Yup that will do it they seal the tube as it slides down over it and that was allowing vacuum to pull fuel up around by passing the jet
Yamadog
Lifetime Member
That is usually caused by sta-bil or seafoam additive over the summer
Brudulje
Newbie
Thx for all your replies mate, do you think this will solve my problem?
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Yamadog
Lifetime Member
Yup but check the ide jets while its apart that decomposed rubber is somewhere
Brudulje
Newbie
Yh i have cleaned the jets and the needle for the float and everything down there. I ran out of daylight so i will mount the carbs back on tomorrow. What settings do you recommend for the idle and pilot screws?
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Yamadog
Lifetime Member
Crap you will have to search that on here it has been 10 yrs since I set up a rack of carbs - sorry
Brudulje
Newbie
No problem mate, ill find it. Thx again for the help
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NorthernMainer
Veteran
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2015
- Messages
- 27
- Age
- 35
- Location
- Caribou Maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2003 Yamaha Rx1
I have my fuel screws out 2.5 turns, and get it to idle around 1,600rpm or just high enough so you don't hear the clutch rattle.
Brudulje
Newbie
Thx, i have read the same and im going to set it up the same way
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Brudulje
Newbie
Ok so i finished the carbs and put it all back together. It stars easy when warm now, and it doesn't backfire when i stop it.
BUT...It still idle at 3500rpm, and now it goes in protect or something after about 3 mins of driving. Suddenly it just holds 3500rpm even if i give it full throttle. And if i stop and start it again it works for like 20 sec and then it is like its in protect again.
It seems like it only happens when i let go of the throttle, if i keep driving its fine.
So im thinking its some kind of sensors or electronic trouble..? Please help, every suggestion is very much appreciated.
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BUT...It still idle at 3500rpm, and now it goes in protect or something after about 3 mins of driving. Suddenly it just holds 3500rpm even if i give it full throttle. And if i stop and start it again it works for like 20 sec and then it is like its in protect again.
It seems like it only happens when i let go of the throttle, if i keep driving its fine.
So im thinking its some kind of sensors or electronic trouble..? Please help, every suggestion is very much appreciated.
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superfan75
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Do you have some slack the throttle cable ? I forget what the exact amount of slack its supposed to have, but there needs to be some slack or it will activate your TORS and it wont go above about 3500 rpm. If the throttle cable has the right amount of slack the TORS itself may be acting up. You can bypass the TORS by unplugging it and plugging the wires going to it into themselves.
Brudulje
Newbie
I have fixed it now, it was the 3 sync screws that was sett to high, screwed them all 1/2 a turn out and the the idle dropped to 2000, and the tors did not activate.
Gonna fine tune the carbs and sync them perfect, but it seems that i have fixed it now
I can't thank everyone who replied enough, i dont think i would have been able to fix it without you. You have saved me big $$$.
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Gonna fine tune the carbs and sync them perfect, but it seems that i have fixed it now
I can't thank everyone who replied enough, i dont think i would have been able to fix it without you. You have saved me big $$$.
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superfan75
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Hey that's awesome that it was just something so simple. I wouldn't have guessed the carbs being out of sync would make the idle hang.
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