race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
So I am wondering if I am doing something wrong. Even without any shims left I have 1/4 inch of play. I put the tool between the two halves and tightened the helix back up like in Dave's video. I am going to try and attach a video so you can see. I checked and the tool is straight. I cant believe I am doing this right and getting that much play.
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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How much did you machine off HUB?
Most need to remove 3-4mm....
I dont like using the gauge that way, I lay it down on primary.
But either way you are still out 4mm it looks like to me.
Dan
Most need to remove 3-4mm....
I dont like using the gauge that way, I lay it down on primary.
But either way you are still out 4mm it looks like to me.
Dan
KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
Looks like you've found you reason for blowing so many belts. You are also flexing the bar a bit too much too I see.
Hammer70
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You are supposed to wiggle the play left to right like Dave’s video you are gauging it wrong from what I saw
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
Sorry guys I didnt check the gauge right. One side it lays flat the other side it has wiggle. I should have paid closer attention to Dave's video. When i flip the gauge over it's much closer. I will have to straighten the gauge and then check again.
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
Next stupid question,sorry I am full of them. My secondary on both halves have weird Mark's that wont clean up normal. Wondering if anyone has seen these before. Dealer cleaned clutches as part of my belt blowing check but this is something I didnt notice on my Apex
Attachments
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
Sand sheaves up with green pad....then acetone them.
You never answered, did you machine HUB? How much?
Also, yes your bar is bent....put the bar up to your nose and look down it, like a carpenter looks down a 2x4....you will easily see if its bent, and which way needs.
Dan
You never answered, did you machine HUB? How much?
Also, yes your bar is bent....put the bar up to your nose and look down it, like a carpenter looks down a 2x4....you will easily see if its bent, and which way needs.
Dan
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
I haven't machined any off yet. I wanted to see how much I was going to need with no washers first
KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
Corrosion. Looks to be from belt on over the summer and humid climate perhaps. Or trailered on open trailer maybe.
SPM
Pro
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Exactly what I was thinking also, summer trouble.
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
I will get a new scrubby pad. I used to use the ones you use to scruff up a car for paint. Is the green one more fine or more coarse? I wont leave the belt on again in the summer. I didnt even think of that.I replace it with new at the start of every year, but leaving it on there can cause that? I have never hauled it on an open trailer.
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race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
OK even more questions. So I have a belt deflection adjuster from BOP. That isnt the issue. I am noticing that my secondary when I let off the throttle does not return to completely open. The belt stays down about 2mm or so and if you just bump the throttle it then opens up completely and allows the belt to sit just a hair over level. Shouldnt the secondary open completely when you decelerate?
Sorry for all of the questions, I am just trying to make this perfect this year so I dont have belt issues. I bought the Hurricane alignment tool a clutch kit with new Primary and Secondary springs the belt deflection tool checked my rollers in the secondary, everything in the primary looks good. I ended up taking all of my washers out as I believe from what I can tell from measuring with a straight edge I am about 59mm right now. That is as close as I can get without machining some off the stub shaft.
Sorry for all of the questions, I am just trying to make this perfect this year so I dont have belt issues. I bought the Hurricane alignment tool a clutch kit with new Primary and Secondary springs the belt deflection tool checked my rollers in the secondary, everything in the primary looks good. I ended up taking all of my washers out as I believe from what I can tell from measuring with a straight edge I am about 59mm right now. That is as close as I can get without machining some off the stub shaft.
Probably bent alignment bar while trying to get it into position in the primary. I lift back of sled in the air, turn track to get splines in secondary to line up, then once secondary slid all the way on, turn track by hand to get bar into primary.
Try your go/no go gauge upside down like in Rockerdan's video, you may get a more consistent reading. Your video shows you wiggling it and not maintaining it flat on the clutch hub. It's hard to keep go/no go gauge flat as it is too skinny imo. Rockerdan's video he puts wider end on the clutch hub and rests alignment bar on it for better reading. Although Rockerdan's method is different than Hurricane's video I felt it works better. Do it both ways and compare readings.
Try your go/no go gauge upside down like in Rockerdan's video, you may get a more consistent reading. Your video shows you wiggling it and not maintaining it flat on the clutch hub. It's hard to keep go/no go gauge flat as it is too skinny imo. Rockerdan's video he puts wider end on the clutch hub and rests alignment bar on it for better reading. Although Rockerdan's method is different than Hurricane's video I felt it works better. Do it both ways and compare readings.
