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Is changing to a 23T top worth the effort


Phazernut, easiest way to kill your top end is to install 192 studs!!! Unless you are running on glare ice don't go with anything over 144. I run 96, down the middle, even 120 down the middle would be ok. A friend has a 07 Apex GT, stock gearing with 144 studs, I have a 06 Apex ER, 23 top gear, air box mod, cr10ek's and 96 studs, I embarrass him bottom, midrange and top end.
 
I have the studs in and don't plan to remove them. I'm not all about top end. I like the hook up and acceleration. If the 23T helps I'll be happy. On the couple of runs I got in last season I did notice a drop in top end but the hookup was amazing. I f I lose a few MPH on top I'll live
 
Last year I ran a 22-40 and when it hooked, WOW. I ussually kept my transfer rod adjustment closer o the min and it still would pull the skis right off the ground if I hooked up good. For corner to corner go 22-40 but your top end will drop to 115 (Dreamo) for me that was plently. I didn't have to change any clutching or anything as the RPM's were fine. The only thing that may have changed for the worse was I did seem to go through belts a little quicker but still got 1500 to 2000 miles on them. It may have been conditions though because we had sooo much snow last year and the conditions were always loose.
 
Phazernut said:
I have the studs in and don't plan to remove them. I'm not all about top end. I like the hook up and acceleration. If the 23T helps I'll be happy. On the couple of runs I got in last season I did notice a drop in top end but the hookup was amazing. I f I lose a few MPH on top I'll live
Click to expand...

If you don't care too much about top end, then run 22/38 or 23/40. You will be good up to 114mph on a good hard surface, but will get their alot faster. I run 23/40, because I don't get to run those big top end runs to much. I have to really go and find areas like that for me to run those big speeds. 192 studs is to much IMO. You are using the right stud, 1.450, but I would run 168 and studding the outside belt as well is all you will really need, unless you are drag racing constantly on a perfectly hard surface.

Call Ulmer racing of rthe right tools to remove the nuts that hold the gears on. Helps a ton and worth the money. Makes it a piece of cake with the right tool.
 
If I go to the 23/40 can I still use the stock chain? I assum the bottom is 39 now.
 
Phazernut said:
If I go to the 23/40 can I still use the stock chain? I assum the bottom is 39 now.
Click to expand...

Yes, you can use the stock chain with 23/40. Stock is 38 on the bottom and 70 link chain. If you run 22/38, you will need a 68 link chain.
 
Will there be a big difference using the 40 vs 38 with the 23T top.
I ordered the 23 from the dealer today........should I go all the way and get the 40 bottom as well?? I hope I won't need to get into clutching changes with the 23/40
 
Phazernut said:
Will there be a big difference using the 40 vs 38 with the 23T top.
I ordered the 23 from the dealer today........should I go all the way and get the 40 bottom as well?? I hope I won't need to get into clutching changes with the 23/40
Click to expand...

Well, I would have just ordered the 22 and the 68 link chain. Before you put the order in. Call Ulmer, he may have a chain that he can sell for cheaper. The 40 bottom gear is 140.00 with the bearing. It's not cheap. A 22 top is 30 and the 68 link chain should be 70 bucks. That's the way I would go if I had to do it again.

Back to your other question. The 40 gear works better, because there is less bend in the chain, which if you are just dropping one top tooth off the top, it works the same with less bend on the chain. I hope this helps...

A clutch kit will help and I believe is the needed with these changes.
 
I don't want to get into a clutch kit. If that is where I'm headed I'll just stay with the 23T top and live with that.
 
Phasernut, if it's money I understand, but to me, just changing the 23 top gear does not buy you much and probably not worth the money. It's clutching and gearing that makes the big difference. You can't properly harness the true effectiveness unless you change the clutching. That's my 2 cents.
 
I ordered the 23/40 setup from the dealer yesterday. If I gotta add an Ulmers clutch kit I will.......its only money afterall. I've never done anything with clutching so I guess I'm a bit nervous about getting into it an spending half the winter trying to set it up. I put a bender exhaust on it last season and hated it so I'm a bit more cautious this year. One thing for sure the engine will stay stock.
 
As I stated above I went 22-40 and didn't need to reclutch it. There was a noticable difference in out of the hole jump. Not to say that it shouldn't have been clutched but it didn't have to be. So I guess what I'm saying is that you can make all these changes and not change any of the clutching until later on or even next year. I don't know that you'll notice a one tooth drop on the top gear only but who knows. Good point about the price of the bottom gear and that you must also buy the bearing to go with it. Make sure they order the rev. gear and bearing if you have reverse, sounds dumb, but they did it to me. I would get the 40T bottom as no matter what top you end up with I think it is benificial.
 
Do I need to aoder a berring as well...or does it come with the bottom gear. For 140.00 + I would think it comes with it. Can I use the one that is on the sled now?
 
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