chaseme25
Veteran
Going to Wyoming to do some riding, and I'm looking for clutch & gearing setups.
Ffbsy
Extreme
setup
Dont want to hyjack your thread but I was about to start the same thing, if anybody could also help with a setup for out in colorado 8000-10000' that would be great. I have a 2010 xtx curently running a 20 tooth top gear, 1 3/4 backcountry, and alll stock clutching.
Dont want to hyjack your thread but I was about to start the same thing, if anybody could also help with a setup for out in colorado 8000-10000' that would be great. I have a 2010 xtx curently running a 20 tooth top gear, 1 3/4 backcountry, and alll stock clutching.
Tyloooor
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
check out the mountain section
Mtnviper
Vendor
For clutching I ran the same rivet mass in the weights as what the clutching chart shows for the elevation that you'll be riding at. Only instead of installing the heavier rivets in the tip and lighter or empty in the heel like the chart shows, install the heavy rivets in the heel and lighter ones (or empty) in the tip.
This will give you a straighter shift out and improve the primary clutch back-shift when using stock weights
For a helix, a 43-39 works really well with the stock spring and I usually set the twist at 80* or 90*. A stock MTX 39 helix works pretty good also.
For gearing I ran 19/40 with the 2" 16" wide track. 20/39 or 20/40 works well with 1.75" tracks also.
If you don't already have them, I would get a set of wider (mountain) skis. Wider skis in the 7" to 8" wide range will make a huge difference in deep snow and help keep your front end up.
If your lucky enough to have deep powder
while your there, pulling up the limiter straps a couple of holes and softening up the front shock spring in the skid somewhat will improve the track approach angle and help reduce trenching!
Bill
This will give you a straighter shift out and improve the primary clutch back-shift when using stock weights
For a helix, a 43-39 works really well with the stock spring and I usually set the twist at 80* or 90*. A stock MTX 39 helix works pretty good also.
For gearing I ran 19/40 with the 2" 16" wide track. 20/39 or 20/40 works well with 1.75" tracks also.
If you don't already have them, I would get a set of wider (mountain) skis. Wider skis in the 7" to 8" wide range will make a huge difference in deep snow and help keep your front end up.
If your lucky enough to have deep powder
while your there, pulling up the limiter straps a couple of holes and softening up the front shock spring in the skid somewhat will improve the track approach angle and help reduce trenching!Bill
Ffbsy
Extreme
Clutching
Thanks a lot the weights were my main concern that is the one thing I did not want to mess with when I was out there I have boxes full of springs and helix's so I should be good there. I also am installing 14.5 rollers right now so that should be a big help also with trenching also I would think(not such a aggressive launch).
Thanks a lot the weights were my main concern that is the one thing I did not want to mess with when I was out there I have boxes full of springs and helix's so I should be good there. I also am installing 14.5 rollers right now so that should be a big help also with trenching also I would think(not such a aggressive launch).
Mtnviper
Vendor
With 14.5mm rollers you may want to run slightly less rivet weight. The smaller diameter rollers will lower the engagement RPM and in some cases lower the shift out RPM as well, due to the increased leverage of the weight.
An easy way to tell if they are going to effect your shift RPM, would be to install just the 14.5 rollers in to your current set-up and take it for a spin. If it changes your shift out rpm, then you can adjust the rivet mass according before heading West.
An easy way to tell if they are going to effect your shift RPM, would be to install just the 14.5 rollers in to your current set-up and take it for a spin. If it changes your shift out rpm, then you can adjust the rivet mass according before heading West.
revster
TY 4 Stroke God
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Not a cheap way, but an easy way.....
I have a Schmidt Bros stage II so it uses the stock weights drilled out and weight added. When I goto the mountains I drop the weight and run them empty and they work awesome. That would be my 7000' set up. Below that I can leave some weight in if needed.
I have a Schmidt Bros stage II so it uses the stock weights drilled out and weight added. When I goto the mountains I drop the weight and run them empty and they work awesome. That would be my 7000' set up. Below that I can leave some weight in if needed.
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