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New track for MP

asti said:
I found a slightly used track that i will put on in a week or so. It's 144*16*2.25. Do you think i'll have to cut the lugs and what gearing should i go with?
Do you have enough clearance for your exhaust/muffler with the 2.25" track? Did you lose much speed with the deeper lugs? I imagine the traction must be vastly improved - I found a fair difference by just upgrading to a 1.5".
 

The lugs run free from everything, no problems!
I found a Yamadealer here in Sweden who extends MP:s to 411x40.6x5,7 (metric dimensions) and they said it was no problems.
Thats what I found out too, but you cant go for higher lugs.

I may have to go for non slip-drivers though, if I give it full throttle in powder, the track will slip sometimes.
I didnt try the topspeed yet. Its not so important for me anyhow, but I can test it someday and post if there is interest.
 
I am going to retrack my MP to Challenger 16x144x2. I have been thinking also to change standard 9-tooth drivers to Wahl Bros 8-tooth extroverts. I have understood from this thread that there would be enough space for 2" lugs without any changes in drivers, but I would like to have a bit better torque for deep snow and sleigh pulling. With extroverts I also want to prevent track slipping. I know I lose top speed a bit, but that's not so important for me.

I think every MP owner knows how careful you have to be with the throttle if you stop in powder and try to continue. When I bought my MP, it took many weeks to learn handling the throttle gently enough when start moving from the powder without getting stocked very deep. Earlier I was driving mostly Lynx and Sdidoos. With those I never faced this kind of problem. I'm a little afraid that if I go to smaller diameter drivers, this "MP-feature" shows up again. Or maybe my fear is unnecessary? I would like to hear experiences if anyone has done this kind of drivers size change for MP.
 
I think you might benefit from changing gears. Maybe one less tooth on the top gear would make it take off slower with a bit more torque to get it out of sticky situations.
 
Mooseman said:
I think you might benefit from changing gears. Maybe one less tooth on the top gear would make it take off slower with a bit more torque to get it out of sticky situations.

yep, this has been in my mind too.

Another point why I'm going to smaller drivers is that I want to make more space for preventing tunnel icing. Or maybe there would not be any difference with icing if I keep 9-tooth drivers still? (change to extrovert model anyway)

So, which choice is better: change gears or change drivers? Difficult to choose :)
 
Hmmm. I would think that if there is more space between the track/drivers and the heat exchanger, that will leave more space for ice to accumulate. I haven't had any issues with ice accumulating there but have heard of Phazers having to clear it once in a while. May depend more on temperature and conditions rather than spacing with the heat exchanger. Maybe with the 2" paddles, it will help keep it clear.

Try to PM karl as I do believe that he has a similar track (actually it's 159x16x2). Also asti has the same track as you are looking so he may be able to advise.
 
that is possible that more space means more ice in this case...
 
the first weekend behind with the new Challenger 16x144x2" and 8-tooth no-slip drivers. The improvement in the powder snow was more than huge.

There was 70-80cm snow on the flat and more than one meter in the uphills. So I got quite nice touch for deep snow riding.
Now I could easily stop in the powder and it did not stuck there. I also need to give much less throttle than earlier.
The "real" uphill climbing was also possible for the first time now. I went up the same uphills where my friends went with their Summits :). Of course the speed was not even a close to them but anyway I reached the top. Earlier I could only dream about it.

On a trail I did not see a big difference to 32mm Ripsaw. Top speed was of course lower, speedometer showed 102 km/h which actually is still too much for me :sled2:, I think smaller drivers affect more on this than the track.
 
That is amazing that such a heavy sled could do that without getting stuck. On trail, those 2" paddles will be a detriment and could also precipitate slider wear if the trail is hard packed.

Enjoy!
 
yes, it was a real surprise how easily it keeps going after a total stop in deep snow. Earlier I needed a shovel many times if I stopped it in the powder.
It is true that on the trail 2" lug is not optimal. But for me that's not an issue because I drive mostly off trail.
 
I too have a challenger mountain track. 144 x 16 x 2. It lets me go up hills I wouldn't have dreamed of with the oem track. Cost just over $1000 cad installed.

I can't spin out on anything packed by a sled now, but powder traction is amazing too.

Top speed is a titch over a hundred when on a packed road. Got 96 kph on a foot of my own track. High eighties on a foot of untouched.

It does feel a little slower to go, but most deep snow doesn't scare me unless it's in a boondocking situation, which is way too easy to wind up in here in BC.

I ride it around Squamish , and plan to ride a lot more this winter in the Caribou plateau (Quesnel) where the track should really shine. I don't like mountain terrain with this heavy, easy to roll over machine.

I really need to dial in the suspension though. I have everything pretty stiff right now. I think I enjoyed the factory settings the most.

I have trouble leaning this beast over, even with the sway bar off. Which is why I'll take advice on suspension.

Today I switched the spacers in my skis so they are an inch narrower, and that's about it for now. New runners are needed though.

I ride mostly fresh snow, a packed trail to get there.
 
The little bit you run on packed with 2" lugs will kill your sliders. I'd recommend upgrading to 135" Excell wheels throughout and adding low snow wheels at the front unless your previous wear was minimal. I'd still keep an eye on them. When I bought mine, it had 800km and the sliders were worn through at the front curve. I got some nice results front using adjustable GT/FX front shocks from a Phazer. Even tough the stock ones are HP gas, they are non-adjustable. The adjustable ones can be adjusted for both compression and rebound. Maybe a gear change would help with both takeoff and top speed because you're moving more weight in the track.Either a smaller lower or larger upper gear might help.
 
well, I am reluctant to start changing much unless its it really worth it (economically). I have been considering the fourth wheel kit though for piece of mind with this super grabby track.

so Moose, you just swapped the front shocks for Phazer, thats worth considering. . .
I am thinking I should take my rear suspension off from (H), but I'm 240 pounds plus gear think its adjusted correctly?
I bottomed out front shocks a couple times when I first got sled so I stiffened them up, but its hard to roll over now even without the sway bar.
 
Welcome to the forum! :sled1:

I'm 320 lbs so I had to stiffen up everything. I upped the front skid shock tp medium so as to not make the ride too harsh but maxed out the rear torsion springs as well as turn up the 2-up block. I still bottom out occasionally but the ride is still acceptable to me.

Yes, the adjustable front shocks made a noticeable difference. I was lucky and had a parts sled to get them from. Smoothed out trail riding for sure. Now you mention "gear" so I assume you use your sled more for off-trail riding? Those shocks may not make that much difference since you would be on new snow rather than hard groomed trails.

For the 4th wheel kit, you can make your own and save some cash:
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/4th_wheel_kit.htm
It is definitely worth it because I did lose a wheel once on the side that would have been "wheelless" and certainly would have been disastrous.
 
Hi, i would buy venture MP, but i would known if the MP is good in deep snow if i change track for 154x16x1.5 with extension and BIG simmons or similar ski?
 


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