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removing the spacers between throttle body and engine block as per hurricane's recommendations

yamamarc

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
Sep 29, 2013
Messages
3,051
Location
Massey Ontario
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2019 zr9000 Ltd
Well here goes !! This is not a fun job at all!!
I have limited garage time for the next few days so I will post as I go! Hope this helps guys who want to attempt the task!
Guys like( Turboflash , clutchmaster.....) who have done this job already please share any tips
Turboflash recommends a 6 inch 4mm ball end allen wrench on a 1/4 inch socket! This is a must !!!
I removed the airbox and intake pipe going to compressor of turbo
To remove the pipe goin to the compressor I had to remove the mounting bolts on the steer post below the riser

The bolt and nut on each clamp is steel so you can use a magnet to hold nut from dropping!
The spacers are aluminum so not magnetic
Here are some pics so far I have the 2 removed on the chaincase side (easiest ones lol)

20200408_113537.jpg 20200408_114120.jpg 20200408_114150.jpg 20200408_115026.jpg 20200408_124648.jpg 20200408_120753.jpg 20200408_124245.jpg 20200408_125010.jpg
 

Well here goes !! This is not a fun job at all!!
I have limited garage time for the next few days so I will post as I go! Hope this helps guys who want to attempt the task!
Guys like( Turboflash , clutchmaster.....) who have done this job already please share any tips
Turboflash recommends a 6 inch 4mm ball end allen wrench on a 1/4 inch socket! This is a must !!!
I removed the airbox and intake pipe going to compressor of turbo
To remove the pipe goin to the compressor I had to remove the mounting bolts on the steer post below the riser

The bolt and nut on each clamp is steel so you can use a magnet to hold nut from dropping!
The spacers are aluminum so not magnetic
Here are some pics so far I have the 2 removed on the chaincase side (easiest ones lol)

View attachment 154837 View attachment 154838 View attachment 154839 View attachment 154840 View attachment 154841 View attachment 154842 View attachment 154843 View attachment 154844


Screenshot_20200408-124955_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
The size of the spacers are .250 stock I grinded 1/16 off to .1875"
20200408_143838.jpg
 
How are you getting the aluminum spacers out without dropping them and getting them back in?
This has been one of the most unpleasant jobs I have ever done!!!!! Lol
I had all sorts of tricks...lol
I used a pick (straight and 90*) and slide the spacer on to tip and held the bolt with the 4 mm allen wrench and carefully slide spacer on the bolt.
Once i got the spacer on I would put a dab of grease at the end of a flat head screwdriver and stuck the nut to it then hoped for the best...lol

To do this over again I think I would strip er right down
 
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Few questions:

1. Has anyone here experienced this problem (premature knock light caused by boost leak) first-hand? If so, can you comment on it?
2. Anyone running TD have the same premature knock light problem like Dave is talking about with the Hurricane tunes? If so, is this the same remedy you performed?
3. Is this a problem for guys running 20lbs of boost and under?
4. How many premature knock light cases in total did Dave analyze? Of this amount, how many were caused by boost leaks? Of that number, how many were caused by the throttle body boots leaking?
5. For any sleds fixed with this method, did the problem re-occur at any point after this fix?
6. What torque value should we use after shaving the spacer? I think the manual spec is 7.2 ft-lbs, but I could be wrong.

Thanks Marc for taking the time to post pics and explain the process you used!
 
Thanks Yamamarc for this thread. When you've completed the project I will be able to review this thread a few times and come up with an accurate alcohol volume needed to do the project, nothing worse than starting a project and coming up short on booze. Im thinking this is good to do wether or not youve had knock light issues. Look at it this way, if the boots arent quite snug enough on some sleds then they are likely borderline being tight enough on others and if they loosen up the slightest youll likely end up having small boost leak and or knock light issues and have to tackle it anyway.
 
Thanks Yamamarc for this thread. When you've completed the project I will be able to review this thread a few times and come up with an accurate alcohol volume needed to do the project, nothing worse than starting a project and coming up short on booze. Im thinking this is good to do wether or not youve had knock light issues. Look at it this way, if the boots arent quite snug enough on some sleds then they are likely borderline being tight enough on others and if they loosen up the slightest youll likely end up having small boost leak and or knock light issues and have to tackle it anyway.
No problem!! I completed all six!! I usually keep cool and positive when tackling a job but this got me frustrated!!lol
Couple things to add
Place a peice of white cardboard under the throttle body to catch either a nut or a spacer cause trust me you will drop one...lol
I wasted 1 hour looking for one spacer that dropped
Tools i recommend
4 mm allen wrench ball head
4 mm allen wrench on 1/4 socket (2" and 4") ball head
Small needlenose visgrips the smaller the better
1/4 universal
1/4 extension
Short and long pic sets (straights and 90's
Medium flat head screwdriver
Bit of grease(found it work well to put a dab of grease on end of screwdriver and stick the nut to it to install
Magnets

A set of Asian hands will work really well!lol

Had wife help me twice a 3rd set of hands on the center top and clutch side top clamps will ease frustrations

LOTS OF BEER GUYS TRUST ME!
12 pack and not the light #*$&@!!
 
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No problem!! I completed all six!! I usually keep cool and positive when tackling a job but this got me frustrated!!lol
Couple things to add
Place a peice of white cardboard under the throttle body to catch either a nut or a spacer cause trust me you will drop one...lol
I wasted 1 hour looking for one spacer that dropped
Tools i recommend
4 mm allen wrench ball head
4 mm allen wrench on 1/4 socket (2" and 4") ball head
Small needlenose visgrips the smaller the better
1/4 universal
1/4 extension
Short and long pic sets (straights and 90's
Medium flat head screwdriver
Bit of grease(found it work well to put a dab of grease on end of screwdriver and stick the nut to it to install
Magnets

A set of Asian hands will work really well!lol

Had wife help me twice a 3rd set of hands on the center top and clutch side top clamps will ease frustrations

LOTS OF BEER GUYS TRUST ME!
12 pack and not the light #*$&@!!
ok I have most of that stuff but Ill need to look for some asian hands:dunno:
 
How does a boost leak cause knock?

If you have a boost leak, especially with a tune, it can overspeed the turbo. The turbo has to work extra hard pushing extra air will increase the IAT. Basically very inefficient.

When I did mine I took the entire throttle body assembly off, I think it’s probably less of a hassle than trying to keep from dropping the nuts and spacers. Electrical and fuel are all quick disconnect so it’s not really not much more work. Couple of coolant lines for heated Throttle bodys and they are off, M2C
 
If you have a boost leak, especially with a tune, it can overspeed the turbo. The turbo has to work extra hard pushing extra air will increase the IAT. Basically very inefficient.

When I did mine I took the entire throttle body assembly off, I think it’s probably less of a hassle than trying to keep from dropping the nuts and spacers. Electrical and fuel are all quick disconnect so it’s not really not much more work. Couple of coolant lines for heated Throttle bodys and they are off, M2C

Agree 100% I will hopefully never do it again but if I do the throttlebodys are coming off !
 


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