So my wife says

[74Nitro]

Its all in the shaft.

The shafts are likely flexing long before they become permanently bent. Everyone here has bent some form of metal and you know that to get it to reach a specific permanent bend angle, you have to bend it beyond that angle because it will spring back. To break it that would mean that shaft is constantly bending as the failure is probably metal fatigue. Even a small amount of flex is going to put tremendous force through the bolt/hole/tunnel area. Whatever the length of the shaft, cut it in half, that is the lever through which the forces are being transferred and the majority of the force ends up at the juncture between bolt head and the hole.

Whatever is causing the flex (shock bottoming out, etc) needs attention as well as upgrading the shaft to one that is stiffer. A stiffer shaft will help (thats what she said) as it will better resist flexing, the shorter bolts in the ends of the BOP shaft will help as they are less prone to stretching, and the plates will help because whatever forces do come through the shaft will be dispersed across a greater area. But.. that shock.. if it is failing for whatever reason the problem isn't truly going away until that is addressed. Travis has a great solution but only if the shock is working properly.

Yes, good points.

 

[NYTurbo]

Stock shaft is hollow and the bolts are too short making them very easy to break. Even the RR shaft isn’t adequate IMHO

 

[stgdz]

I feel like this deserves mention


The outside components are the RR components and the inside ones are the stock. Not that the stock ones had a broken flange.

So one of the more important thing sis the length of the bolt. The standard gets to the length of the collar and the RR bolts extends further than the collar. The collars are essentially the same but the shaft of the RR is the same diameter of the collars, just machined down to let the collars slide on.

I believe the RR shaft is probably the most robust due to those reasons. Additionally if you look at the part that's actually touching the tunnel it's the flat face of the collar. You want as much surface are touching that tunnel to distribute the load.


One of the tabs on my collar broke, likely from flexing and I'm at about 3k mileage. I'm getting my shocks rebuilt and going with the sting ray front shock.


I'm in the process of removing my collars from the original shaft to see if it's bend when rolling across cement but the shaft has a few dings. It looks like the collars were glued on with something though.

 

[slimjim2525]

Well, I'm glad i started this thread. It's been educational. All this time I just thought it was weakness in the tunnel, its the shock the whole time. I will be replacing the shock every year, or is there a better shock out there?

 

[slimjim2525]

Jim, did you beef up that rear tunnel also?
Cuz you can't run that much weight back there without it, especially gas in the very back.
My first Winder my bud bought snapped in half.
I Mean IN-HALF

Yes, put in rear tunnel savers from BOP's.

 

[NYTurbo]

Again, check shock every year, put a better cross shaft in like HUrricanes and a heavier spring. I have no idea why Cat uses such a wimpy spring

 

[cannondale27]

Great thread!

 

[1nc 2000]

I run the barn of parts set up for the top shaft.
Have since bent the yamaha lower shaft that the center shock mounts on.
160/260 cat spring on standard hpg shock.
Ordered up a different new center shock in October.
On back order till end of December.
That will get the hygear springs on it if my cat spring won't fit due to having resi with clickers and kashima coated.

 

[1nc 2000]

Don't forget to check all coolant hose clamps!

 

[cannondale27]

You guys know I have a Billet sealhead for that center shock which uses actual FOX F.I.S.T. Seal and Scraper system?
FOX Ice Scraper Technology (FIST)
Our patented FOX Ice Scraper Technology eliminates moisture from entering the shock by scraping off snow and ice before it ever interfaces with the seals. The bushing fit is also a tighter fit to shaft than most of the stock sealheads which vary greatly. This shock still is doing a ton of work for its size but these definitly help. This is the same system the QS3R Center shock uses.

 

[NYTurbo]

You guys know I have a Billet sealhead for that center shock which uses actual FOX F.I.S.T. Seal and Scraper system?
FOX Ice Scraper Technology (FIST)
Our patented FOX Ice Scraper Technology eliminates moisture from entering the shock by scraping off snow and ice before it ever interfaces with the seals.View attachment 169438

What’s it worth ?

 

[cannondale27]

What’s it worth ?

$50 and the refresh of $30

 

[cannondale27]

Well, I'm glad i started this thread. It's been educational. All this time I just thought it was weakness in the tunnel, its the shock the whole time. I will be replacing the shock every year, or is there a better shock out there?

Its both weak parts and shock. There is better shocks out there including the QS3 Center shock on LE if you get rid of the Crossover Spring setup. Axis and Elka. Bottoming of Center shock is felt in your feet and you may even hear it clunk. That cannot happen without issues eventually.

 

[slimjim2525]

Don't forget to check all coolant hose clamps!

Did that too and tightened all air boot clamps. My 2018 had that exact problem. Cutting out when giving it gas. Some on here said to tighten all those clamps, and I couldn't how loose some of the clamps were. Both sleds ready to go. I wanted an opinion though. The skid of my 2018 has surface rust in spots. Would doing a spray on clear coat of the skid help at all?

 

[1nc 2000]

Any surface protection will help as long as its done correctly.
Personally I have not done anything to mine as far as paint. I dont open trailer. Mostly ride from home in the snow.
I am sure disassemble and power coating would be a great fix.