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xtx suspension settings

Um, regarding stiff vs. soft ski spring settings ??

If you're going to run them stiff, you might just as well pull the sway bar off the sled - because you're killing it's abilty to help keep the sled flat.

To work properly, or to optimize the sway bar's function to help keep the front end flat, the outside of the suspension has to be able to deflect up as easy and as far as possible. Limitation there being that it can't be so soft that it's bottoming constantly - but even that can be controlled with damping to a certain extent if it were to become an issue.

There's a case to be made for running a front end stiff/tall but that case is negated completely if you're talking about setting a sled up for play in the woods/twisties... The plan there will be to run the sled no higher in the front than you need to.

With that in mind, using the front skid spring preload to control transfer and weight on the front skis is not an issue regarding roll center. FWIW
 

ahicks said:
Um, regarding stiff vs. soft ski spring settings ??

If you're going to run them stiff, you might just as well pull the sway bar off the sled - because you're killing it's abilty to help keep the sled flat.

To work properly, or to optimize the sway bar's function to help keep the front end flat, the outside of the suspension has to be able to deflect up as easy and as far as possible. Limitation there being that it can't be so soft that it's bottoming constantly - but even that can be controlled with damping to a certain extent if it were to become an issue.

There's a case to be made for running a front end stiff/tall but that case is negated completely if you're talking about setting a sled up for play in the woods/twisties... The plan there will be to run the sled no higher in the front than you need to.

With that in mind, using the front skid spring preload to control transfer and weight on the front skis is not an issue regarding roll center. FWIW

I guess it all depends on how stiff is too stiff or how soft is too soft. All I know is the spring/valving combo just does not add up...

Also, I was not stating that it needs a very stiff spring up front, but I believe it actually needs a something to help midigate the amount of body roll that this sled provides. Lowering this sled with stiffer/shorter springs would help and then adjust with the valving. A dual rate spring is probably the best combo and I also note that the swaybar must match the spring/valve configuration.
 
SledFreak said:
ahicks said:
Um, regarding stiff vs. soft ski spring settings ??

If you're going to run them stiff, you might just as well pull the sway bar off the sled - because you're killing it's abilty to help keep the sled flat.

To work properly, or to optimize the sway bar's function to help keep the front end flat, the outside of the suspension has to be able to deflect up as easy and as far as possible. Limitation there being that it can't be so soft that it's bottoming constantly - but even that can be controlled with damping to a certain extent if it were to become an issue.

There's a case to be made for running a front end stiff/tall but that case is negated completely if you're talking about setting a sled up for play in the woods/twisties... The plan there will be to run the sled no higher in the front than you need to.

With that in mind, using the front skid spring preload to control transfer and weight on the front skis is not an issue regarding roll center. FWIW

I guess it all depends on how stiff is too stiff or how soft is too soft. All I know is the spring/valving combo just does not add up...

Also, I was not stating that it needs a very stiff spring up front, but I believe it actually needs a something to help midigate the amount of body roll that this sled provides. Lowering this sled with stiffer/shorter springs would help and then adjust with the valving. A dual rate spring is probably the best combo and I also note that the swaybar must match the spring/valve configuration.

Agreed. But if you were going custom sized springs, valve stacks and sway bar, you'd have a lot more time and money wrapped up in it that I want to spend. Also, if I did go ahead with that idea, when done it would be to MY riding style/habits. The next guy on the sled would probably say this setup blows! The soft setup lets the OEM components that are there work pretty good - but obviously better is possible.

If the soft setup won't let you go through the corner fast enough without leaning beyond your comfort zone, you still have the option of setting the sled up to couple up quicker/earlier in the rear - getting the rear to run looser. As you know though, that's another compromise adjustment, and doing that is going to get into your ride quality.....

And thinking about it, if the sled is leaning big time, there's the possibility that it's not lifting that inside ski when that's happening. If it's doing that a lot - tighten up the ski springs a little and see what happens?
 
SJ's setup in my opinion will improve the handling/driveability of the sled. If you ride super aggressive you will be compromising your high speed/ big bump capabilites. The suspension will bottom out and you will get too much transfer to the front end in braking situations.

I haven't tried the dual spring, but the triples improve the sled big time. A revalve will take it to the next level and make the sled tailored to you. These sleds are made to please the masses. If you really want the thing to be perfect for you, one needs to seek aftermarket parts and custom valving of the shocks. Skis, spacers, risers, valving, carbides, shocks, clutching, etc will all improve upon a mass produced design.

Unfortunatley, once you start going that route you will never want to go back. You will be spending more money on sled setups in the future. For me that is part of the fun. I like tinkering and improving on Yamaha sleds. I have been riding Yamis since 1981 and can't see myself ever riding a stock sled ever again.
 
<<<<Unfortunatley, once you start going that route you will never want to go back. You will be spending more money on sled setups in the future. For me that is part of the fun. I like tinkering and improving on xxxx sleds.
>>>>

;)!
 

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sgilbert said:
ok, I finally got the boys day out to do some trailside tuning and hard riding. have simmons skis on my xtx and alot of wheels. have had rear torsion springs on med., coupling rods to max lift and front shocks with 5 turns preload for 300 mi. steering a little heavy at low speed. rear susp a little soft at high speed. tried rear springs on high for first time. got on it a clamped it in usual fasion and almost lost it when it stood straight up. really confused how it changed. was happy to see it didn't seem to add ski pressure, but after 20mi rough ride, couldn't take how hard it road (like a shorty) and put back to medium. medium seems a bit soft even with compression clicker max., but set to high is way too hard. the bit soft I got used to sitting (in) the suspension, but did bottom few times at high speed. plan to turn coupling rods for 50% and see if that helps stiffen the last few inches of travel. at this time, the front springs are at 5 turns preload. any more I need power steering. less is easier, put sloppy handling. think maybe a stiffer sway bar like on my apex. was able to soften front with sacrificing handling. very happy with the xtx, but would say yamaha is full of it when they say it handles like a 121. after riding tight/rough stuff all day, arms are in rough shape
turned front springs down to 2 turns preload for my arms and set transfer rods to minimum transfer. seems to have helped with bottoming so I can run rear torsions on medium since high is too harsh. pretty happy with the handling now. have it real close
 
depending on your weight..might want to try it on soft ?

also for heavy steering...add some center shock spring tightening...a little bit makes a big difference..
 
if you are using the full stroke on medium and like it then great...for those who want to try..remember the compression and tosion spring work against each other...whenever you change one you change the other......

for those who are tired of arm pump....its not just the front springs...but the center shock spring thats critical...essentially anyone over 190lbs is collapsing the center shock just by sitting on...preload needs to be increased...

also...some of you have heard of the limiter strap failures...this also can be affected by the center shock collapsing and the strap drooping and rubbing on the track cogs...
 
I dont know what you guys are talking about with increased body roll and raising the front end of the sled by taking out all the preload on the front ski shocks.... it does the opposite. When you screw all the preload out... it lowers the sled and flattens the a arms out. Makes the sled wider and flatter in corners.... It rails in corners now, just a hint of ski lift which you can take care of with a lean. I can not beleive you guys need these things harder... I am no snow crosser but man these front ends are stiff. Just follow what sj said. Dont do just one adjustment and not the others.... Do all of them front to back, then go from there. Even if your brain tells you it wont work that way... just try it.... the settings WORK! and remeber one turn on the preload is a huge change.
 


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