Yamaha Apex Will not start

[Slayshow]

Hello everyone, I bought an 06 Yamaha Apex a few days ago, initially when I went to go see it he tried to start it for me, took him a few minutes but he eventually got it going once he gave it throttle. (it had been sitting since february)

He said the only thing it needed was new exhaust donuts which makes sense because it sounded like crap, so I have ordered the exhaust donuts. I decided to clean the thing up so I took the plastics off and decided to change the plugs thinking that could be an issue, they were badly fouled so I put new ones in. Still wont start. It has fresh gas and I charged the battery it had 13.6 v.

The fuel pump turns on when you turn the key, it turns over fine but it just wont start, before I changed the plugs it seemed like it wanted to start but it seemed like it was kind of back firing, tiny pops once or twice.

He said he asked a buddy why it took so long to start originally and he was told that because of the donuts being gone and causing the leak it wasnt getting enough back pressure to start. So im wondering is that the whole issue or what else could it be?

 

[stevieu1]

I know it sounds stupid but first check the kill switch. I can't tell you how many times ive gotten nervous it wasn't starting and found the kill switch on. Any codes on the display? Check electrical connections. These sleds are known for having corrosion in the grounding blocks.

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[Slayshow]

I just tried again, kill switch was not engaged, but wouldnt it not even turn over if it was enagaed? So now there was a yellow caution light blinking and what looked like an engine icon on the lcd screen blinking aswell

 

[stevieu1]

That is what happens when the gas is low among other things. Yes it will turnover with the kill switch engaged. Did you put fresh gas in it? Old gas causes all kinds of problems. If the plugs were fouled when you pulled them, then the previous owner did not start it properly. My 06 has 10775 miles and I NEVER have to give it gas to get it to start.

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[stevieu1]

When you start these sleds. Never give it gas until the red warning light goes off. Once it is off it's ready to ride.

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[Slayshow]

Yea it was basically empty when he started it for me last time and when I came and picked it up it had over half a tank of fuel. Yea he probably didnt, he knew that you needed to wait for the red light to turn off before you ride but he only ran it for about 30 seconds when I saw it and I started it for about 5 seconds when I first got it and ever since then it wont start, there is no numbered error codes though, its just the blinking yellow light and a blinking check engine looking icon

 

[stevieu1]

Also once started you have to let them warm up completely before shutting them down or plugs foul. I would drain all the gas and start over. A lot of stuff has to come off to change the plugs. Check to see if everything is plugged in. I wish you luck

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[Slayshow]

Yea I double checked and its coming up with engine code 12 which is the crank shaft position sensor, I guess the stator is going on it

 

[thor452]

Yes that in not uncommon read posts on that subject before making any purchase or trying to fix stator.
Lack of back pressure will not keep the sled from starting. they get real loud and backfire but even with a completely broken pipe they still start and run. look up ground blocks issue and check them all first. get all kinds of codes with them. and then check resistance in stator. if that has a poor reading then read up on the options and decide what you want to do.

 

[Slayshow]

Yes that in not uncommon read posts on that subject before making any purchase or trying to fix stator.
Lack of back pressure will not keep the sled from starting. they get real loud and backfire but even with a completely broken pipe they still start and run. look up ground blocks issue and check them all first. get all kinds of codes with them. and then check resistance in stator. if that has a poor reading then read up on the options and decide what you want to do.

Yea I checked the resistance of the stator and it was not up to yamahas specs, it was 1.2 ohms I believe. New one is on the way. It was weird though because the sled wouldnt start for a few days then I kept trying and the code finally popped up so then I did my research and figured out the problem, hopefully thats the only issue. Anyone know roughly how long it takes to change the donuts?

 

[stevieu1]

Donuts is a big job. It all depends on you. There is a sticky on that. I've done them twice. Seat,tank,skid,pod all has to come off. Easier than trying to work around other parts. Don't know how long it took me. I did it over a couple days. Be ready to use heat and a lot of elbow grease. Make sure to check the flex pipes for cracks or you will be taking it apart again. When I put copper donuts on mine, I found some cracks after starting it. I think the seal the new donuts give exposes any cracks or weak spots on them.

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[stevieu1]

http://www.ty4stroke.com/index.php?threads/139717/

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[thor452]

Yea I checked the resistance of the stator and it was not up to yamahas specs, it was 1.2 ohms I believe. New one is on the way. It was weird though because the sled wouldnt start for a few days then I kept trying and the code finally popped up so then I did my research and figured out the problem, hopefully thats the only issue. Anyone know roughly how long it takes to change the donuts?

not uncommon for the code to not be there right away and for it to sometimes still run with bad pick up coil. did you get a whole new stator or just the coil? if just the coil read up on threads on here you have to file the screw holes to make it adjustable to set it correct or it will hit flywheel and destroy itself or be to far away to pick up signal I don't remember which.

If no one has been in the donuts yet it is hard to get connections apart and can be easier to drill out the rivets on the hangers for the y pipes then try to get them apart at the collector and just slide the whole exhaust back as a whole but be sure to inspect the whole system for cracks they are known to break in a few different spots. like the two into one on the silencer and the flanges of the y pipes and the cracks can be on top of the two into one collector at the silencer.

 

[Slayshow]

I got my proper meter to actually work and I was getting a reading of 0.2 ohms now so I think the stator is actually fine, I was getting a ridiculous reading on the sensor part of it so Im thinking that the sensor is just shot. I ordered the whole package, the stator and sensor, so ill throw those in and if my stator ever goes bad again ill have a spare i guess. Yea ive read that I need to file the screw holes, but ive also read that some people say it fits perfect, so maybe the new ones have that problem fixed.

Apparently the donuts have been done once before, the sled only has 7500 km on it so I'm not sure exactly, but yea im probably gonna take everything apart to check it, im putting the copper donuts on so I shouldnt have problems for a while unless the exhaust fails.

 

[APEX 06]

It should start with bad donuts. Jump it with a car battery(with car/truck turned off) if the battery is bad at all even just a little it will not start. The sled needs 12.4 volts to start if you get 12.3 it won't start.