Littlehoe
Extreme
Mine were all still tight but I only have 60 miles on it so far.
Since I was working and we still have very little snow I dropped it off at the dealership and had them perform the recall work for me... just picked her up today and well who knows... For all i can tell they just put it in the shop for it to warm up a bit and then gave it back...lol...
Since I was working and we still have very little snow I dropped it off at the dealership and had them perform the recall work for me... just picked her up today and well who knows... For all i can tell they just put it in the shop for it to warm up a bit and then gave it back...lol...
bradb
Extreme
All I can say is better late then never!! mine fell out of my 09 XTX in Dec 08 at 284 miles (had dealer fix it under warranty he loctited and retorked all of them and repaired the damage) and so did a lot other people's and they wait till the middle of season to do the recall? whata bunch B.S. Should been handled before the start of this season.Why the wait Yamaha?
Daranello
Suspended
What prodution month did they start using locktight?
rightarm
TY 4 Stroke Master
You would figure maybe the dealer would notice this during there PDI, they do have to put the shocks on no?.
billymx815
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2009
- Messages
- 521
- Location
- S. Berwick, Maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- SXV Venom, RTX Nytro, SR Viper RTX SE
- LOCATION
- Maine
rightarm...you would think so but as we know some dealers are better than others.
jonnygym
Newbie
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2010
- Messages
- 13
A Arm Bolt Repair
All you do is take off the three phillips screws that hold the front plastic nose piece on which will let you gain access to all four front bumber bolts, remove the front bumber. You will see the a arm bolts on each side.
I jacked my sled up a little to remove pressure on the bolt.
The nut for the bolt is welded to the frame on the other side of the a arm so you only need access to the head of the bolt.
Loosen the the a arm bolt and it will slide out easily, Put some lock tight on the threads and tighten it back in.
Hope this helps. I wanted to use my sled this weekend others may just want to bring it to the dealer.
All you do is take off the three phillips screws that hold the front plastic nose piece on which will let you gain access to all four front bumber bolts, remove the front bumber. You will see the a arm bolts on each side.
I jacked my sled up a little to remove pressure on the bolt.
The nut for the bolt is welded to the frame on the other side of the a arm so you only need access to the head of the bolt.
Loosen the the a arm bolt and it will slide out easily, Put some lock tight on the threads and tighten it back in.
Hope this helps. I wanted to use my sled this weekend others may just want to bring it to the dealer.
billymx815
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2009
- Messages
- 521
- Location
- S. Berwick, Maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- SXV Venom, RTX Nytro, SR Viper RTX SE
- LOCATION
- Maine
X2 - jonnygym.
welterja
Newbie
So what is the consensus...blue or red loctite?
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
I'd say use blue loctite.
It'll make it easier to remove when you have to replace your subframe.
It'll make it easier to remove when you have to replace your subframe.
welterja
Newbie
Thanks. I'm hoping I never have to replace a subframe but it sounds like blue will do the job.
welterja
Newbie
For those of you who have done this yourself, have you actually seen a burr? I'm wondering why part of the fix wouldn't be for the dealer to file the burr smooth before putting the bolt back in. I would think it would only take an extra 30 seconds to file and repaint before putting the bolt back in and that would further ensure the proper torque would be maintained.
billymx815
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2009
- Messages
- 521
- Location
- S. Berwick, Maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- SXV Venom, RTX Nytro, SR Viper RTX SE
- LOCATION
- Maine
Mine went in to the shop with only 62 miles on it. The dealer let me help out with the fix so I could learn more about the sled etc. When we took it apart we saw no Burr. So either it never had it or it broke loose in 62 miles...We don't think it had it because the bolt was tight. FYI - Dealer used Blue Loctite...
Mine took about 500 miles before it fell out. Lucky for me and the sled i was close to the dealer. Mines a 09 XTX
sr12345
Extreme
Re: A Arm Bolt Repair
Can someone please elaborate on what we need to actually remove to get to this upper A-arm bolt? I've seen descriptions calling for removing the entire bumper and nose cone, and others which elude to only having to remove a few trim screws on the nosecone, and then being able to pull it back far enough to get a wrench on the bolt. Thanks.
Can someone please elaborate on what we need to actually remove to get to this upper A-arm bolt? I've seen descriptions calling for removing the entire bumper and nose cone, and others which elude to only having to remove a few trim screws on the nosecone, and then being able to pull it back far enough to get a wrench on the bolt. Thanks.
welterja
Newbie
Thanks for the info! Was there any sign of loctite on the bolt when you took it out or were the threads clean? Also, what month was your sled built?billymx815 said:
