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Belt problem critique please

Primary clutch is hot.
There is a standard spring there.

View attachment 175465
Myself i would add more arm wieght or less finish lbs on spring to start with, get it to grip the belt harder, sounds like your hitting rev limiter, old rule of thumb roughly 1 gram = 100 rpm, i would recondmend some dalton or thunder products adjustable wieghts, i prefer myself thunders so you can tune the low,mid, and top rpm seperatly.
 

When i say low,mid, and top rpm i mean mph's, what ever your geared for example 120 mph break it into 3rds, 0to40 mph low-40 to 80 mph mid and 80to 120 mph top rpm hope this helps.
 
Like Knapp pointed out that RPM was recall RPM that doesn't mean anything due to it's lack of accuracy. I have never used the feature so I had no idea it was useless. The problem here is that Purple spring is just too much spring for a full stock set up. It's going to increase tension too much and make heat. For comparison the stock spring rate is 37.4 / 118.8 lbs. He's already loading the motor up riding in deep powder and from what i see unless he cleaned the sheaves the primary is holding the belt if not for a tiny bit of slippage at engagement.

Yamarus If you don't have access to a spring that's better suited for the application like a Dalton Black/Orange or a Cat Red/White then put more wrap on the stock spring. Just note that those Yamaha springs do break so don't go crazy with it. You could also try a little less angle on the helix, but again I'm not sure how it is getting these items where you are located
 
Cat Red/White then put more wrap on the stock spring. Just note that those Yamaha springs do break so don't go crazy with it.
Can you please tell me the part number for the Arctic Cat Red/White spring?

I'll be installing a stock spring on the secondary clutch this weekend. What setting would you recommend, 3-3, 1-6, 2-6? Thank you.
 
Can you please tell me the part number for the Arctic Cat Red/White spring?

I'll be installing a stock spring on the secondary clutch this weekend. What setting would you recommend, 3-3, 1-6, 2-6? Thank you.

Anything beyond the stock 3-3 and it will could bind. If you run the pink secondary spring, it is already coil binding even on that 3-3 setting.
 
A stock yellow spring that came in the 17's is a bit stiffer than the pink they put in them in the later years. The 17 had the best stock clutching in the secondary with stock 35 and yellow set at 60.

When they went to the lousy 35-39 reverse helix in the later years and the pink spring it was really messed up IMO and the sled slowed down in stock trim. They would over down low and pull down too far up top, backwards of what worked well, but the clutching and belts ran cooler because of the lighter secondary spring. If only they would have fixed the offset and locked down the secondary that would have done a better job.
 
Anything beyond the stock 3-3 and it will could bind. If you run the pink secondary spring, it is already coil binding even on that 3-3 setting.
Yep, pink.
I set the tension to 1-6. I'll be monitoring the temperature and the belt again this weekend.
Screenshot_20240208_202408.jpg
 
Unfortunately, these sleds are not common in our country. Therefore, we have to look for spare parts. A lot has to be ordered from other countries, and the wait is very long.
There are many parts from Arctic Cat, Viper, Nytro. But it's unclear what part numbers fit the Sidewinder.
 
Unfortunately, these sleds are not common in our country. Therefore, we have to look for spare parts. A lot has to be ordered from other countries, and the wait is very long.
There are many parts from Arctic Cat, Viper, Nytro. But it's unclear what part numbers fit the Sidewinder.
Any of the Viper or Nytro springs will interchange.
In addition, if you wanted to switch the secondary rollers out for something that won't ruin the helix over time, the Cat secondary rollers fit.
What are the average speed you run most of the time with this machine?
 
I have a bunch of clutch parts from my Sidewinders I can send you including Helix's, Thunder Springs, Dalton weights, stock springs, rollers.
Let me go look & I'll PM you.
I don't need them.
Dirt cheap!!!
Heck I have whole clutches somewhere in my attic.
 
Guys like KNAAP are the experts here so I'm just an innocent bystander.
But let's slow down a notch.
This looks like a stock '17 BTX that he re-geared & added a Purple spring that he runs at 9200 rpm's MOST of the time cuz that's what powder guys do.

He set offset to 59.
Put on AC rollers.

ONE step at a time now.
If he puts on stock Helix like Dr. KNAAP says, let's see what happens.
He should be at 8800 which is peak power AND 400 rpm's less & that HAS to make some difference right there
That may be the gears so maybe he needs some weight, but lets see what happens again ONE step at a time

Run that & report back
 
Yep, pink.
I set the tension to 1-6. I'll be monitoring the temperature and the belt again this weekend.
View attachment 175472

Like I said, the pink binds already at 60 degrees, so setting it at 70 its really going to bind at full travel. Don't be surprised if you pop another belt at high speed. Especially if you are still geared down. When you limit the travel on the secondary, and the primary keeps pulling belts pop.
 
They go BOOOOM!!!!
Then you soil 'yer britches & pray the whole belly pan isn't destroyed.
ALL Winder boys have been through this
 
Like I said, the pink binds already at 60 degrees, so setting it at 70 its really going to bind at full travel. Don't be surprised if you pop another belt at high speed. Especially if you are still geared down. When you limit the travel on the secondary, and the primary keeps pulling belts pop.
Yup, like all of the 2012 to 2017 800 Cats. Every single one, the primary will try to shift up more than secondary will tolerate, belt tension goes to moon, and belt blows up, every sled. Cat's fix was to increase venting to clutch side which nothing to address real cause of problem.
 


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