FX Nytro overheating

[NFLD-Nytro]

It makes sense to me I'm just questioning if it's really enough space to make a difference. I'm going to try it anyway because it can't hurt.
Here's one for the wrench heads on this site - Is there a way for us Nytro overheaters to upgrade our T-Stat so it opens and starts flowing the coolant earlier and more often? Also is it possible to bypass the fan and make that turn on when the sled turns on to help disapate heat from the get go?

I'm running a Viper t-stat and it is helping.
It opens at about 130F But you gotta get more air flowing through the hood for it to make a difference. I did put 2 vents in the hood right behind the rad. At speed it evacuates heat from behind the rad. I never see my fan come on now.

Stupid question - how would I do this? I'm not even sure where the T-Stat is located on this puppy.

Its easy to change if you already have your airbox out. (K&Ns in)
Pull your hood off stand in front of your sled, the t-stat housing is on the left hand side just under the lower corner of the rad. Hoses are connected to it.
BTW an old poor man's trick used at race tracks around the southern hot states is to drill a hole or 2 in the t-stat flange to by-pass and flow coolant full time until it hits open temp. That way you'll always have a t-stat in there that will open and close at the upper temps and you get some cooling action from the rad below the open temp. How many holes and how big to drill them? Is an experiment that I didn't want to deal with.
But... after testing so far with a 125-130F Viper t-stat. I think you could remove the stock 170F t-stat completely (not testing mtx here) and it won't run much lower than 170F. But once you start cutting holes in your hood the rad starts to work as a cooling component, not as a heat soaker.

Perhaps you could post a pic of the vents you did.

I'd like to see that too. I don't understand the point of having a rad with a fan if it won't keep the machine cool when the heat exchangers aren't getting snow.

 

[mach9]

More riding time watching water temp gauge.
Viper t-stat works, except you need to be creative with the seal.
I added and extra o-ring around the slightly smaller Viper t-stat but then i still had to seal the housing with rtv.
I am running with diluted antifreeze.
I did not use ice scratchers this year but reccomend you should on the nights the trails freeze rock hard after a warm day.

Air temp did not seem to have too much effect on my testing.
I ran mostly between -20c and +2c degree day or night.
Snow condtion has the bigger effect.

Hard ice condtions roads with little snow - temp 190 to 200 degrees.
(at times even hotter but warning light never came on)
Groomed trails typical snow - temp 160 to 170 degrees.
(the perfect temp)
Fields, Lakes, fresh powder over 7" deep - temp 140 to 150 degrees.
(sometimes even cooler for a brief moment)

I assume now that the Viper t-stat i'm running stays open the entire time, after warm-up.
I'm also quite sure the vents I put in the hood played a part in helping keep cool and to have the rad work better. Otherwise why is the rad even there?
I'll post pics of the vents as soon as I can.
Overall, I'm glad I switched out the t-stat.

 

[billymx815]

More riding time watching water temp gauge.
Viper t-stat works, except you need to be creative with the seal.
I added and extra o-ring around the slightly smaller Viper t-stat but then i still had to seal the housing with rtv.
I am running with diluted antifreeze.
I did not use ice scratchers this year but reccomend you should on the nights the trails freeze rock hard after a warm day.

Air temp did not seem to have too much effect on my testing.
I ran mostly between -20c and +2c degree day or night.
Snow condtion has the bigger effect.

Hard ice condtions roads with little snow - temp 190 to 200 degrees.
(at times even hotter but warning light never came on)
Groomed trails typical snow - temp 160 to 170 degrees.
(the perfect temp)
Fields, Lakes, fresh powder over 7" deep - temp 140 to 150 degrees.
(sometimes even cooler for a brief moment)

I assume now that the Viper t-stat i'm running stays open the entire time, after warm-up.
I'm also quite sure the vents I put in the hood played a part in helping keep cool and to have the rad work better. Otherwise why is the rad even there?
I'll post pics of the vents as soon as I can.
Overall, I'm glad I switched out the t-stat.

Would love to see the pics of the vents you put in...

 

[**sj**]

fyi instead of a viper stat...If thats what you desire ...Id look cross reference the oem part for a lower temp part that fit correctly....maybe an auto parts store..

 

[billymx815]

fyi instead of a viper stat...If thats what you desire ...Id look cross reference the oem part for a lower temp part that fit correctly....maybe an auto parts store..

Good idea. Then you don't need to worry about a correct seal or rtv sealant etc. Hopefully an autoparts store has something like that!

 

[burgerbone]

Are you guys using bottom protection plastic? I had heat problem with my XTX last week in powder snow. I was able to drove only 5 km when heat light comes on. It happens couple of times and thought that something have to be wrong. Then I just turn sled to the left side and take a closer look to the heat exhanger. My plastic bottom protector was too long and it makes like a visor under the heat exghanger. So wet snow was not able to drop down so this makes like a air pocket between track and heat exchanger. I just take 10 mm away from plastic and it was really solution for that problem in powder snow. I don't have any heat problems on hard or packed trail.

I know that you gus know this issue but I was so surprised how easy fix can be. My local dealer didn't know this issue Now they know...

Old thread, but still useful info.

I just rented a sled because I'm up in Quebec for 5 days and my XTX started overheating for no reason. My skid plate is bent to #*$&@ and the snow is building up on the bottom of it therefore I don't think any new snow is cooling the heat exchanger.

If this is the case Yamaha better come up with some pretty damn good excuses because I have to pay for the sled to get trailered 2 km to the dealership from the Ski doo Shop. Not to mention the $750 bux I just dropped to rent a sled for 2.5 days.

I was thinking it was the thermostat or the pump. Why would the reservoir temp be cold?

 

[Nielv]

Any updates or new findings on this topic would be appreciated!

 

[hibshman25]

We've got a dual fan set up we are working on to improve cooling. The plate houses the stock fan and adds an apex fan for additional cooling.

 

[stubb111]

this is the rad re-locate I did for my nytro xtx. it was done to create more space behind the rad, to allow air somewhere to go after it had passed through the rad. it should be noted I have a gen1 trail tank, and a steering relocate (which is necessary for this to work) and I also have put on a mountain tech vented dash. no more cooling issues, except for the one time I dragged a home made groomer (a modified skid) for 7.5kms across the lake through 18" snow to create a trail (light came on just as I rolled back into the cottage after a there & back run.

SEE BLEOW.....before & after pics




BEFORE

AFTER

 

[sprintcat]

Looks good.

 

[shadow44]

What are the measurements for that piece?

 

[BigTime]

I've just finished reading this whole thread, and it just boggles me how some can have no overheat issues, and others(like me) overheating constantly. For example, my friend and I both bought our brand new nytro XTXs back in 09. 6 seasons and 6000 miles later, I've done just about everything to combat overheating on my, and his temp light has never even came on!!!! I even installed a water temp gauge on his sled because I couldn't believe that his was running that much cooler than mine. But it was. I don't get it what so ever. I've added Mtx cooler, block off plates, extra venting, completely flushed and changed coolant twice, scratchers, and I can't even remember what else. Maybe this radiator shim is one last thing to try before I throw in the towel


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kviper]

We've got a dual fan set up we are working on to improve cooling. The plate houses the stock fan and adds an apex fan for additional cooling.

View attachment 114640

Does this kit work with the trail tank and what about a switch to run the fan before 200* +. What's the price of the kit?

 

[hibshman25]

Does this kit work with the trail tank and what about a switch to run the fan before 200* +. What's the price of the kit?

To use the kit with a trail tank you need to have a steering relocate. Fan kits are $125. I also sell relocate kits for $40.

 

[kviper]

Thanks for the reply and nice talking to you!