FX Nytro overheating

[billymx815]

It makes sense to me I'm just questioning if it's really enough space to make a difference. I'm going to try it anyway because it can't hurt.
Here's one for the wrench heads on this site - Is there a way for us Nytro overheaters to upgrade our T-Stat so it opens and starts flowing the coolant earlier and more often? Also is it possible to bypass the fan and make that turn on when the sled turns on to help disapate heat from the get go?

 

[Daranello]

Interesting. There must be a way to test this? Big fan????

 

[THEROOKIE]

I had this done the first year I had my 2009 nytro due to the fan hitting the first generation trail tank. I have since installed 2nd generation tank and put back to stock. I only spaced about 3/4" on top and 1/2" on bottom. as much as I could with the factory steering post setup. I have a OFT steering post in the mail and was planning on making spacers like posted. I think this is a beneficial mod.

 

[Daranello]

Funny cause I got a second gen trail tank and I sometimes hear my fan hit the tank

 

[mach9]

It makes sense to me I'm just questioning if it's really enough space to make a difference. I'm going to try it anyway because it can't hurt.
Here's one for the wrench heads on this site - Is there a way for us Nytro overheaters to upgrade our T-Stat so it opens and starts flowing the coolant earlier and more often? Also is it possible to bypass the fan and make that turn on when the sled turns on to help disapate heat from the get go?

I'm running a Viper t-stat and it is helping.
It opens at about 130F But you gotta get more air flowing through the hood for it to make a difference. I did put 2 vents in the hood right behind the rad. At speed it evacuates heat from behind the rad. I never see my fan come on now.

 

[grizztracks]

Funny cause I got a second gen trail tank and I sometimes hear my fan hit the tank

If you install a Trail Tank I recommend installing a couple of shims behind the upper radiator mount to prevent the fan blades from hitting the tank. After I hit a railroad crossing hard enough to bend my subframe the blades started hitting my tank. I checked everything over and came to the conclusion that the impact must have forced the tank forward causing it to interfere with the fan. I used a couple of washers behind the top mounting bolts to move the radiator forward. I haven't had a problem since.

 

[vsmpowered]

radiator fan fuse keeps shorting out anybody had that happend to theirs sled? the sled is 09 xtx

 

[billymx815]

It makes sense to me I'm just questioning if it's really enough space to make a difference. I'm going to try it anyway because it can't hurt.
Here's one for the wrench heads on this site - Is there a way for us Nytro overheaters to upgrade our T-Stat so it opens and starts flowing the coolant earlier and more often? Also is it possible to bypass the fan and make that turn on when the sled turns on to help disapate heat from the get go?

I'm running a Viper t-stat and it is helping.
It opens at about 130F But you gotta get more air flowing through the hood for it to make a difference. I did put 2 vents in the hood right behind the rad. At speed it evacuates heat from behind the rad. I never see my fan come on now.

Stupid question - how would I do this? I'm not even sure where the T-Stat is located on this puppy.

 

[mach9]

It makes sense to me I'm just questioning if it's really enough space to make a difference. I'm going to try it anyway because it can't hurt.
Here's one for the wrench heads on this site - Is there a way for us Nytro overheaters to upgrade our T-Stat so it opens and starts flowing the coolant earlier and more often? Also is it possible to bypass the fan and make that turn on when the sled turns on to help disapate heat from the get go?

I'm running a Viper t-stat and it is helping.
It opens at about 130F But you gotta get more air flowing through the hood for it to make a difference. I did put 2 vents in the hood right behind the rad. At speed it evacuates heat from behind the rad. I never see my fan come on now.

Stupid question - how would I do this? I'm not even sure where the T-Stat is located on this puppy.

Its easy to change if you already have your airbox out. (K&Ns in)
Pull your hood off stand in front of your sled, the t-stat housing is on the left hand side just under the lower corner of the rad. Hoses are connected to it.
BTW an old poor man's trick used at race tracks around the southern hot states is to drill a hole or 2 in the t-stat flange to by-pass and flow coolant full time until it hits open temp. That way you'll always have a t-stat in there that will open and close at the upper temps and you get some cooling action from the rad below the open temp. How many holes and how big to drill them? Is an experiment that I didn't want to deal with.
But... after testing so far with a 125-130F Viper t-stat. I think you could remove the stock 170F t-stat completely (not testing mtx here) and it won't run much lower than 170F. But once you start cutting holes in your hood the rad starts to work as a cooling component, not as a heat soaker.

 

[Termite]

Are there any Rear Tunnel Coolers that can accommodate studs? I have an 09 XTX with the trail tank.

I think I’ve tried all the options and am ready for this sled to fall out of the back of my truck. I want to smash this thing.

1st try - Coolant was 100% strength at first. Diluted it down to 50/50. Didn’t help

2nd try - Added 4oz of water wetter to the 50/50ethyene/gylcol. Didn’t help

3Rd try – Drained entire cooling system and replaced with engine ice. Didn’t help

Other than the Yamaha Mountain cooler all the other aftermarket coolers don’t seem to accommodate a studded track. I talked with the guys at mountain performance and they tell me to remove the tunnel protectors, but when I looked at the bottom of my tunnel and see all the deep gouges and scratches at the rear of my tunnel. I know I can’t remove them. If I do I am asking for trouble when I hit that one huge bump and smash the heat exchanger and bleed out all my coolant.

1) Mountain Performance – Need to remove tunnel protectors – Confirmed per mountain performance
2) Pioneer Performance – Appears the tunnel protectors need to be removed. Waiting for a call back
3) Van-Amburg Enterprises – Need to remove tunnel protectors

I would normally just add the yammi mountain cooler and call it a day…. Seems obvious, but in our group there’s two nytros and the other nytro HAS the mountain cooler and has the exact same problems, so I know this isn’t going to help.

I plan on cutting holes in my plastic trim to help with air flow thru the radiator and doing the radiator spacer mod listed earlier.

I don’t know what to do with this machine anymore it isn’t even any fun to ride anymore with this overheating issue all the time.

I don’t ride this machine in the dirt and have always have plenty of snow. Doesn’t matter if it is hard pack, powder, or loose snow. Seems like the warmer the temperatures the less problems I have. When the overheat light comes on I’ve checked the heat exchanger and have no ice build up what so ever.

This has gotten worse over time. If I ride the machine like a grandma everything is fine, but once I squeeze the throttle on a long straight away 60+mph or run in power the overheat light comes on.

I am willing to spend some money on an aftermarket heat exchanger that can accommodate studs. Is there anyone out there using one?

Thanks,

 

[**sj**]

whats the chances you have a bad pump?

my bet....you have repeatedly had a air bubble in the system

if you are repeatedly overheating in good snow moving you most likely do...

the mtx tunnel cooler is the only true option (other than ice scratchers) for cooling with studs

 

[DeerHuntr]

I too have had some issues with overheating on occasion. I rigged up a set of Holtz Racing ice scrathers on the insides of my ski's instead of on the rail like they are supposed to be. Worked awesome!!! Rode on groomed trails with the temps in the mid 40's and never had the light come on and before I would have overheated for sure. My rear skid looked like I was riding in 6" of powder and everyone elses was clear of snow.

 

[Yamatario]

I got my 09 Nytro XTX new in Jan 2010. I had numurous overheating problems. We completely flush coolant system, purged for vapour locks. Then I was in northern Ontario and with fresh snow and -40 and still overheating. I got back after that trip and as a last resort the dealer changed a temperature sensor. To make sure I also trimmed the back edge of my Skinz skid plate to make sure there was no ice buildup on that edge.

Now have put on another 10,000km and have never have an overheat problem since. Well the light did come momentarily once when I had to pull a doo for 80 km in marginal snow conditions.

 

[shadow44]

It makes sense to me I'm just questioning if it's really enough space to make a difference. I'm going to try it anyway because it can't hurt.
Here's one for the wrench heads on this site - Is there a way for us Nytro overheaters to upgrade our T-Stat so it opens and starts flowing the coolant earlier and more often? Also is it possible to bypass the fan and make that turn on when the sled turns on to help disapate heat from the get go?

I'm running a Viper t-stat and it is helping.
It opens at about 130F But you gotta get more air flowing through the hood for it to make a difference. I did put 2 vents in the hood right behind the rad. At speed it evacuates heat from behind the rad. I never see my fan come on now.

Stupid question - how would I do this? I'm not even sure where the T-Stat is located on this puppy.

Its easy to change if you already have your airbox out. (K&Ns in)
Pull your hood off stand in front of your sled, the t-stat housing is on the left hand side just under the lower corner of the rad. Hoses are connected to it.
BTW an old poor man's trick used at race tracks around the southern hot states is to drill a hole or 2 in the t-stat flange to by-pass and flow coolant full time until it hits open temp. That way you'll always have a t-stat in there that will open and close at the upper temps and you get some cooling action from the rad below the open temp. How many holes and how big to drill them? Is an experiment that I didn't want to deal with.
But... after testing so far with a 125-130F Viper t-stat. I think you could remove the stock 170F t-stat completely (not testing mtx here) and it won't run much lower than 170F. But once you start cutting holes in your hood the rad starts to work as a cooling component, not as a heat soaker.

Perhaps you could post a pic of the vents you did.

 

[NFLD-Nytro]

Are there any Rear Tunnel Coolers that can accommodate studs? I have an 09 XTX with the trail tank.


Other than the Yamaha Mountain cooler all the other aftermarket coolers don’t seem to accommodate a studded track. I talked with the guys at mountain performance and they tell me to remove the tunnel protectors, but when I looked at the bottom of my tunnel and see all the deep gouges and scratches at the rear of my tunnel. I know I can’t remove them. If I do I am asking for trouble when I hit that one huge bump and smash the heat exchanger and bleed out all my coolant.

1) Mountain Performance – Need to remove tunnel protectors – Confirmed per mountain performance
2) Pioneer Performance – Appears the tunnel protectors need to be removed. Waiting for a call back
3) Van-Amburg Enterprises – Need to remove tunnel protectors

I would normally just add the yammi mountain cooler and call it a day…. Seems obvious, but in our group there’s two nytros and the other nytro HAS the mountain cooler and has the exact same problems, so I know this isn’t going to help.

I plan on cutting holes in my plastic trim to help with air flow thru the radiator and doing the radiator spacer mod listed earlier.

I don’t know what to do with this machine anymore it isn’t even any fun to ride anymore with this overheating issue all the time.

I don’t ride this machine in the dirt and have always have plenty of snow. Doesn’t matter if it is hard pack, powder, or loose snow. Seems like the warmer the temperatures the less problems I have. When the overheat light comes on I’ve checked the heat exchanger and have no ice build up what so ever.

This has gotten worse over time. If I ride the machine like a grandma everything is fine, but once I squeeze the throttle on a long straight away 60+mph or run in power the overheat light comes on.

I am willing to spend some money on an aftermarket heat exchanger that can accommodate studs. Is there anyone out there using one?

Thanks,

A couple of points.

Add a rear cooler, and install tunnel protectors over the cooler, like you would on any other sled with a rear cooler. A set of sliders riveted to the tunnel over the cooler will do the trick, and protect yout heat exchanger from the studs.

Second, it's normal to notice the over heating in colder temps. In warm temps the snow is soft, and your track with throw lots of snow. When it's colder, it's dry, and your coolers simply aren't getting the snow they need to cool down. Try running some ice scratchers.

A trick we used to use with the old Wedge chassis Polaris was to put a bolt threw the back of the skis to kick up snow for the running board mounted coolers.

I've run my Nytro in all kinds of weather and the absolute worst is a cold snap after a warm spell. Makes things hard as rock, and the track won't throw enough snow. Nothing to do with the kind of coolant, or the mixture rate, and everything to do with the conditions. I'd take mud over dry ice anyday, at least there's some water there.