09Nytro_XTX
Extreme
Well Saturday i finally leave to get my Nytro. Would there be a way that if i gave the dealer my weight, that they could crank on it and adjust it for my weight? Or will i just have to do that myself?
I only ask, because i was at a big dealer today, and someone said for his ski doo they do something like that?
I only ask, because i was at a big dealer today, and someone said for his ski doo they do something like that?
asphaltkitty
Extreme
depends on your weight, I'm 240 with my gear and the springs are maxed out. ordered new heavy springs for the back, not balanced very good, front is fine , rear is too soft for aggressive riding, or somone over 200lbs.
Muffin
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I would have to disagree with asphalltkitty (NO Offense) I am by no means an expert, but I have done alot of research and had talked on the phone with the guys from Hygear, who are fairly respsected when it comes to Yamaha suspensions.
I am 5'8" and wiegh 230 and run my sled on the medium, for the rear torsion springs. If you do a search and read the threads on setup you need to adjust springs for the ride hieght, meaning when you sit on the sled (with all your stuff on and baggage) the coupling blocks are in the middle, or half way thru their travel. This assumes you have played with the sled a bit and have your weight transfer to your liking. You then use the compression dampening to control ride stiffness and bottoming. Yamaha shocks are valved on the stiff side so you should be able to easily control bottoming with the copression screws. If you still bottom with the compression at the highest setting you need to revalve the shock for your wieght.
If you set the spring too stiff or put in stiffer springs you will get no "set in" The sled needs to sag some when you sit on it, typically 2 to 3". This alows the suspension to move down or fall when it goes over a hole. In essense you need to allow the skid to work for you.
As you ride your sled, make very small changes and only change one thing at a time. If you change to much at once you may go past the sweat spot.
I have about 700 miles on my new XTX and still play with the copression and dampening screws. You will find that you may have to make changes for conditions, hard frozen snow vs soft trashed snirt. But here angian only play the the dampening screws.
I hope this help.
Muffin
I am 5'8" and wiegh 230 and run my sled on the medium, for the rear torsion springs. If you do a search and read the threads on setup you need to adjust springs for the ride hieght, meaning when you sit on the sled (with all your stuff on and baggage) the coupling blocks are in the middle, or half way thru their travel. This assumes you have played with the sled a bit and have your weight transfer to your liking. You then use the compression dampening to control ride stiffness and bottoming. Yamaha shocks are valved on the stiff side so you should be able to easily control bottoming with the copression screws. If you still bottom with the compression at the highest setting you need to revalve the shock for your wieght.
If you set the spring too stiff or put in stiffer springs you will get no "set in" The sled needs to sag some when you sit on it, typically 2 to 3". This alows the suspension to move down or fall when it goes over a hole. In essense you need to allow the skid to work for you.
As you ride your sled, make very small changes and only change one thing at a time. If you change to much at once you may go past the sweat spot.
I have about 700 miles on my new XTX and still play with the copression and dampening screws. You will find that you may have to make changes for conditions, hard frozen snow vs soft trashed snirt. But here angian only play the the dampening screws.
I hope this help.
Muffin
09Nytro_XTX
Extreme
Thank you for the help i only weight about 160 pounds. But was more so curious on what exactly a dealer could do before i purchased my sled.
But like you guys said, it is easy to make changes with the clicker shocks, and just make small changes along the way.
But like you guys said, it is easy to make changes with the clicker shocks, and just make small changes along the way.
asphaltkitty
Extreme
No offense took, well maybe a little, as far as hygear [please] This is my first yam in a long time. but not my first sled, suspension it set up, sag is too much5-6 inches when on the sled, Ive never said it bottoms, just that it travels too much, rear is maxed out . so I have too go too a stiffer spring or springs so that I can dial in that sweet spot! its changed when it had 200 miles on it was ok, not too bad but with 800 miles its sags too much , and no the shocks not blown its fine for the first part of the day just after 50 -60 miles in of the days ride it sags.revmuffin said:I would have to disagree with asphalltkitty (NO Offense) I am by no means an expert, but I have done alot of research and had talked on the phone with the guys from Hygear, who are fairly respsected when it comes to Yamaha suspensions.
I am 5'8" and wiegh 230 and run my sled on the medium, for the rear torsion springs. If you do a search and read the threads on setup you need to adjust springs for the ride hieght, meaning when you sit on the sled (with all your stuff on and baggage) the coupling blocks are in the middle, or half way thru their travel. This assumes you have played with the sled a bit and have your weight transfer to your liking. You then use the compression dampening to control ride stiffness and bottoming. Yamaha shocks are valved on the stiff side so you should be able to easily control bottoming with the copression screws. If you still bottom with the compression at the highest setting you need to revalve the shock for your wieght.
If you set the spring too stiff or put in stiffer springs you will get no "set in" The sled needs to sag some when you sit on it, typically 2 to 3". This alows the suspension to move down or fall when it goes over a hole. In essense you need to allow the skid to work for you.
As you ride your sled, make very small changes and only change one thing at a time. If you change to much at once you may go past the sweat spot.
I have about 700 miles on my new XTX and still play with the copression and dampening screws. You will find that you may have to make changes for conditions, hard frozen snow vs soft trashed snirt. But here angian only play the the dampening screws.
I hope this help.
Muffin
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