ROCKRTX
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
The back of the sled goes up by 1/2"...
ROCKRTX
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
LazyBastard said:The back of the sled goes up by 1/2"...
Was more concern about suspension geometry.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
On a Mono, I think he's right. Your coupling and limiter strap adjustments may need to be tweaked....
ROCKRTX
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
His there a model with longer rear mount bracket that i can switch?
I know rx1 are different part # but have nothing to compare the 2 part.
I know rx1 are different part # but have nothing to compare the 2 part.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
We make new ones from 3/16" or 1/4" alum plate when we're doing a suspension conversion. Use all the original tunnel holes, and new one, wherever you want it, in the bottom.
SLP sells some "drop brackets" that might work OK as well?
SLP sells some "drop brackets" that might work OK as well?
ROCKRTX
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Straight plat 1/4" would be easy to do but my apex bracket are 5/8" thick with the bent in the middle.
Maybe i can do a straight 1/4" plate and ad 3/8" thick plate in the middle to have correct distance for the top suspension shaft?
Another thing a got a 1.25" track with only 1" of lug in line with clip.
( see pic )
Measure with my 7" wheels and got 0.670" or 17 mm of clearance between the track and rail protector.
With the 7.5" wheel so .5" divide by 2 is 1/4 or 6.35 mm more on top,so that will leave me 0.393" or 10 mm at worst between track and rail protector.Also lift the track firm on the rail protector ( without suspension ) and stud clear exhaust.
My second question is how much clearance is enough between track and rail protector?
If i got enough room i wont have to lower rear mount.
Maybe i can do a straight 1/4" plate and ad 3/8" thick plate in the middle to have correct distance for the top suspension shaft?
Another thing a got a 1.25" track with only 1" of lug in line with clip.
( see pic )
Measure with my 7" wheels and got 0.670" or 17 mm of clearance between the track and rail protector.
With the 7.5" wheel so .5" divide by 2 is 1/4 or 6.35 mm more on top,so that will leave me 0.393" or 10 mm at worst between track and rail protector.Also lift the track firm on the rail protector ( without suspension ) and stud clear exhaust.
My second question is how much clearance is enough between track and rail protector?
If i got enough room i wont have to lower rear mount.
Attachments
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Judging by the picture alone, perhaps in addition to dropping the suspension lower, you may also benefit from adding on to the tunnel protectors. Those spikes stick out a LONG distance from the level of the rubber at the clips. I can almost guarantee that if you just lower the suspension, it will STILL eat up your tunnel, exhaust, and worst of all, your front heat exchanger.... in fact, the more I think about this, the more I think that maybe this is a really bad idea.... I'm thinking smaller drivers, suspension drop, and thickening up the tunnel protectors the whole way around..
ROCKRTX
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Lasybastard ,this is like a 1" track with 1.325" worn studs and i run my track tight.Now if you take 1.325 - 1 = 0.325 and we have 1" rail protector?
I don't think it worst than 1.25" track with 1.450 studs...what do you think?
Anyway i am installing the 7.5" top wheels with stock bracket and will give it a try and let you know the result.
I don't think it worst than 1.25" track with 1.450 studs...what do you think?
Anyway i am installing the 7.5" top wheels with stock bracket and will give it a try and let you know the result.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Two things you're missing on your measurement;
Cut depth in the track where it will rub up to the tunnel protectors... from the picture it looks significant, probably about 3/8", so 3/8"+0.325"=0.7", and then add in some for rubber bending/compressing when it hits the tunnel protectors, you're looking at probably 0.9" or more available penetration depth for the steel beyond the bottom of the tunnel protectors.
And finally, the bars in the track are not of infinite strength, the track doesn't just balloon front to back, but across the sides as well. With that, they'll definitely cut in a good bit more than the depth of the tunnel protectors.
Cut depth in the track where it will rub up to the tunnel protectors... from the picture it looks significant, probably about 3/8", so 3/8"+0.325"=0.7", and then add in some for rubber bending/compressing when it hits the tunnel protectors, you're looking at probably 0.9" or more available penetration depth for the steel beyond the bottom of the tunnel protectors.
And finally, the bars in the track are not of infinite strength, the track doesn't just balloon front to back, but across the sides as well. With that, they'll definitely cut in a good bit more than the depth of the tunnel protectors.
ROCKRTX
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Sorry to be so long but i want to tested before.
Lazybastard you were right on the measurement,i measure 0.935" from cut deep to top of the studs but no problem with rubbing to date.
I found why the mono is rubbing so much and how to reduce and cure the problem.I remark early this year that the more tight i adjust the track the more it flex down in the middle.From past year i collapse the suspension and tied up with chain and that make my track so tight.So the mono the more it compress the tighter the track so the flex get worse as the suspension travel and collapse then rubbing on the shock is the result.
Solution,run the track loose and run 7.5" wheel and drop bracket 1/4"
My friend took 1/8" metal plate and bent it with a metal press,transfer the hole and drop the bottom one 1/4".Put back 3/16" rivot and nylon lock-nut for the 2 bolt torque to 53 ft-lb.Ad to adjusts transfer rod 1 notch more transfer to came back to my setting.limiter strap the same.
Here pics
Lazybastard you were right on the measurement,i measure 0.935" from cut deep to top of the studs but no problem with rubbing to date.
I found why the mono is rubbing so much and how to reduce and cure the problem.I remark early this year that the more tight i adjust the track the more it flex down in the middle.From past year i collapse the suspension and tied up with chain and that make my track so tight.So the mono the more it compress the tighter the track so the flex get worse as the suspension travel and collapse then rubbing on the shock is the result.
Solution,run the track loose and run 7.5" wheel and drop bracket 1/4"
My friend took 1/8" metal plate and bent it with a metal press,transfer the hole and drop the bottom one 1/4".Put back 3/16" rivot and nylon lock-nut for the 2 bolt torque to 53 ft-lb.Ad to adjusts transfer rod 1 notch more transfer to came back to my setting.limiter strap the same.
Here pics
Attachments
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