arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
You can't see through that windshield. Isn't that going to be dangerous?
NyTrOMaNIaC
TY 4 Stroke Master
Re: ROX RISERS
Hey NL, you do know you'll get another inch and then some in height just by tilting the stock riser fully forward ? I did with mine, and the difference over dealer set up was amazing. I do like the Rox you installed though, wonder how the anti-vibe unit would work ?
Nice addition to an awesome sled, keep it up
NLVMAX said:Finished Installing my Rox Risers 7/8"x7/8". Got them from http://www.advdesigns.net/roxadhabarri.html I'm 6' and wanted the little extra height. This is a 15-20 minute procedure with no cable issues. If you experience any tension on the trottle cable, you can relieve that by cutting any cable ties stopping the cables from moving. Wasn't an issue here.
I'm pretty sure others have posted pics of this mod so I won't go into detail any more. Just a couple pics.
12mm socket and wrench with a 6mm hex and your laughin.
Cap will go on but it's stayin off on this one.
Hey NL, you do know you'll get another inch and then some in height just by tilting the stock riser fully forward ? I did with mine, and the difference over dealer set up was amazing. I do like the Rox you installed though, wonder how the anti-vibe unit would work ?
Nice addition to an awesome sled, keep it up
NLVMAX
Expert
Grimm said:
I ordered mine from GPS city. Should be here this week so then I can figure out where to install.
Also, like NyTrOMaNIaC said about the stock riser tilting forward is great as well. May help me out with the mount.
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
Yup, I thought I might need a slight rise as well. Then I tilted the riser forward, there are two stops casted into the neck. From the dealer mine was behind the rearward one. I tilted it to were the riser almost touches the front stop. It's perfect, my arms are reached out a little more when sitting (good forward attack position), and when standing I'm not hunched over, and have a slight bend in the elbow. I'm about 6 foot tall maybe 6'1" with the boots on.
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
No problems with the throttle cable being too tight or binding on hard turns?
NLVMAX
Expert
Grimm said:
Haven't tested this yet in real conditions but on the stand feels fine. Usually a 2" is okay and is the case here.
NLVMAX
Expert
INSTALL BILLET HANDLE CR RACING
Well, I got my Nytro Billet Reverse handle a couple of days ago so I thought I'd share the install. Here's the link: http://www.crracingcanada.com/osc/home.php
First remove the plastic piece around the handle.
Now we can see behind the handle and figure out how this thing actually works. Look at that spring and small clips.
Remove this nut LOL and let this arm rest to the side. 10mm
The bracket holding the handle has to be removed and I marked the three bolts with a red marker. Two on top and one on bottom.
So far so good! Go ahead and remove these. 12mm
Now take the bolt running through the arm of the handle and slide the handle out of the bracket. The bracket can just hang for a bit. And look here.
Now the pin has to come out so I took a measure so when I re install it in the new handle I will be close. Remove the tiny clips on each end of the pin.
Well Goddo you are right, that pin is in there snug. So lets get it out. The pic is a bit dark but basically I'm punching the pin out on the vise.
Nope didn't really need a sledge but thats the first thing i seen.
Install the pin in the new handle now according to the measurement taken earlier. Make sure you put those c clips on either side. The pin is still snug but not as much this time around. Thats why they're there.
Slide handle through bracket, put bolt through to secure in bracket and bolt it back on sled. Reconnect reverse arm (for lack of terminology).
We are in business.
Now hopefully this will survive!
Well, I got my Nytro Billet Reverse handle a couple of days ago so I thought I'd share the install. Here's the link: http://www.crracingcanada.com/osc/home.php
First remove the plastic piece around the handle.
Now we can see behind the handle and figure out how this thing actually works. Look at that spring and small clips.
Remove this nut LOL and let this arm rest to the side. 10mm
The bracket holding the handle has to be removed and I marked the three bolts with a red marker. Two on top and one on bottom.
So far so good! Go ahead and remove these. 12mm
Now take the bolt running through the arm of the handle and slide the handle out of the bracket. The bracket can just hang for a bit. And look here.
Now the pin has to come out so I took a measure so when I re install it in the new handle I will be close. Remove the tiny clips on each end of the pin.
Well Goddo you are right, that pin is in there snug. So lets get it out. The pic is a bit dark but basically I'm punching the pin out on the vise.
Nope didn't really need a sledge but thats the first thing i seen.
Install the pin in the new handle now according to the measurement taken earlier. Make sure you put those c clips on either side. The pin is still snug but not as much this time around. Thats why they're there.
Slide handle through bracket, put bolt through to secure in bracket and bolt it back on sled. Reconnect reverse arm (for lack of terminology).
We are in business.
Now hopefully this will survive!
Goddo
Expert
I did pretty much the exact same thing. I took the reverse switch off the mounting plate to make the handle come out of the mount easier. I didn't measure as carefully as you did...
Nice clean install...Very well done.
I'm thinking I may rotate my bars a little forward although I do like their current positioning. Never hurts to try. I may invest in a rox in the new year.
Nice clean install...Very well done.
I'm thinking I may rotate my bars a little forward although I do like their current positioning. Never hurts to try. I may invest in a rox in the new year.
arteeex said:
shouldn't be, When your driving a car do you look at the road directly in front of your front bumper, no, you look farther ahead to see whats coming. same with a sled, i had a chrome windshield on a skidoo zx and it isn't high enough to impair were you are looking while driving.
nytro23
Pro
NLVMAX
Expert
Here is the latest on my SE. I really liked the look of this Alum bumper on a 08 Nytro I seen last season so I got one. Part # SMA-8GLFT-BU-MP
It's a simple install. You have to remove the front nose of the sled to get at the two upper bolts. There are three screws to get this off. One on either side here and...
one behind the front of the skid plate. For ease of install, take her off.
Remove (4) 12mm bolts holding the stock bumper. My Lab is thinking enough with this sled already.
I also removed the reflectors here and put them on the new bumper with the brackets provided.
Here she is with no nose
Install new bumper! Same way you took it off. I don't usually have carpet under the Nytro, thats for my Mustang. LOL
It's a simple install. You have to remove the front nose of the sled to get at the two upper bolts. There are three screws to get this off. One on either side here and...
one behind the front of the skid plate. For ease of install, take her off.
Remove (4) 12mm bolts holding the stock bumper. My Lab is thinking enough with this sled already.
I also removed the reflectors here and put them on the new bumper with the brackets provided.
Here she is with no nose
Install new bumper! Same way you took it off. I don't usually have carpet under the Nytro, thats for my Mustang. LOL
NLVMAX
Expert
Re: ROX RISERS
Planning on this tomorrow. Busy with work. Getting it ready for my setup. NyTrOMaNIaC, what do you think of the 1.5 Intense Track? Anyone else?
NyTrOMaNIaC said:NLVMAX said:Finished Installing my Rox Risers 7/8"x7/8". Got them from http://www.advdesigns.net/roxadhabarri.html I'm 6' and wanted the little extra height. This is a 15-20 minute procedure with no cable issues. If you experience any tension on the trottle cable, you can relieve that by cutting any cable ties stopping the cables from moving. Wasn't an issue here.
I'm pretty sure others have posted pics of this mod so I won't go into detail any more. Just a couple pics.
12mm socket and wrench with a 6mm hex and your laughin.
Cap will go on but it's stayin off on this one.
Hey NL, you do know you'll get another inch and then some in height just by tilting the stock riser fully forward ? I did with mine, and the difference over dealer set up was amazing. I do like the Rox you installed though, wonder how the anti-vibe unit would work ?
Nice addition to an awesome sled, keep it up
Planning on this tomorrow. Busy with work. Getting it ready for my setup. NyTrOMaNIaC, what do you think of the 1.5 Intense Track? Anyone else?
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
I installed my Rox riser as well, plus I hooked up electrical connections for my visor and GPS unit, still waiting on the Ram mount bracket though.
Today, I removed the Ripsaw and installed my Ice Ripper XT track. The instructions that Srxspec provided on this site were of a great help, thanks.
While I had the suspension out, I got familiar with all the settings on the shocks (preload, compression, rebound), holy cow there's a lot of adjustments. It may take a while to get everything dialed in on this sled. I can see it being quite tough to make adjustments while out on the trails though, especially with those rebound adjustment dials at the top of the shocks, very difficult to adjust with your fingers.
Also, I'm going to do a test this year on my sliders. Many have drilled out holes through their sliders claiming that it prolongs the life of them. Well we'll see, as I drilled holes in only one of the sliders. I think it will be a fair test.
UPDATE ON SLIDERS (Feb.09)- Drilling one slider versus the other has provided no benefit. Both were equal in wear, plus the one with holes drilled in collected dirt, which I don't like. Don't bother drilling holes in your sliders...it doesn't help a bit.
Today, I removed the Ripsaw and installed my Ice Ripper XT track. The instructions that Srxspec provided on this site were of a great help, thanks.
While I had the suspension out, I got familiar with all the settings on the shocks (preload, compression, rebound), holy cow there's a lot of adjustments. It may take a while to get everything dialed in on this sled. I can see it being quite tough to make adjustments while out on the trails though, especially with those rebound adjustment dials at the top of the shocks, very difficult to adjust with your fingers.
Also, I'm going to do a test this year on my sliders. Many have drilled out holes through their sliders claiming that it prolongs the life of them. Well we'll see, as I drilled holes in only one of the sliders. I think it will be a fair test.
UPDATE ON SLIDERS (Feb.09)- Drilling one slider versus the other has provided no benefit. Both were equal in wear, plus the one with holes drilled in collected dirt, which I don't like. Don't bother drilling holes in your sliders...it doesn't help a bit.
Attachments
nytro23
Pro
se's
Put 57 miles on today at Petersville, fluffy snow with lots of open holes in the swaps. You'll see by the picture all the ice we picked up. I posted earlier about the new FX NYTRO PLATE that I installed. Not a good plate, picks up way to much ice and snow. I'll bet I was carrying an extra 50 pounds easy...Will be running the stock plate instead.
I liked the first run of the SE, had to soften it up a bit from stock settings. Running boards really stay clean. There is a noticable difference in steering, much less twitching,,,drives a nice straight line through the rough stuff.
AS far as breaking in, I did the 15 minute warm up that the book calls for then wide open when I could all day long. With my extra wheels I saw no hyfax wear. This sled goes through the bumps much faster than my last years RTX
Put 57 miles on today at Petersville, fluffy snow with lots of open holes in the swaps. You'll see by the picture all the ice we picked up. I posted earlier about the new FX NYTRO PLATE that I installed. Not a good plate, picks up way to much ice and snow. I'll bet I was carrying an extra 50 pounds easy...Will be running the stock plate instead.
I liked the first run of the SE, had to soften it up a bit from stock settings. Running boards really stay clean. There is a noticable difference in steering, much less twitching,,,drives a nice straight line through the rough stuff.
AS far as breaking in, I did the 15 minute warm up that the book calls for then wide open when I could all day long. With my extra wheels I saw no hyfax wear. This sled goes through the bumps much faster than my last years RTX
Attachments
for you skidplate guys, i have an update on what i did to mine. i made a two piece plate. goto the mtx section look under the 100 pound diet thread. page 6 has pics and a write up how to.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=59576&start=75
i think it is stronger, more functional, and looks better in my opinion. the skinz/yamaha float plate although a good idea is nothing more than a shovel, and snow holder. and i think it looks god aweful on any sled.
but i am sure you all know about opinions. LOL! ski
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=59576&start=75
i think it is stronger, more functional, and looks better in my opinion. the skinz/yamaha float plate although a good idea is nothing more than a shovel, and snow holder. and i think it looks god aweful on any sled.
but i am sure you all know about opinions. LOL! ski
Similar threads
