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2008 FX Nytro Top Speed - Actual Results


I have a question for ya, if your geared up say 2 teeth on top, wouldn't you want your rpms to be alittle lower on top? I was thinking anything over 8800 rpms will make the sled have more of an overdrive ratio making it act like taller gearing? anyone?
 
ericmichael said:
I have a question for ya, if your geared up say 2 teeth on top, wouldn't you want your rpms to be alittle lower on top? I was thinking anything over 8800 rpms will make the sled have more of an overdrive ratio making it act like taller gearing? anyone?

This is the type of info I'm looking for to...Makes sense what you're saying. Unfortunatley I am only familiar with my race bikes clutch/gearing which is completely different than a sled. I'm in the dark when it comes to sleds clutching/gearing :o|
 
kerry king said:
I thought that the nytro was only supposed to run at 8800 rpm?

I believe this will depend on your set-up, mods, and conditions you ride in (i.e. - elevation)...Most guys with exhaust, intake, and cluthes, etc are squeezing 9000rpm - 9300rpm with good results. The motor can handle it just fine. :letsnow:
 
list your weight grams and locations...

a gram off the tip should get a couple hundered rpm each sleds torque at peak is different though..

you can even add a gram to the shoulder which will pull down engagement a bit but will help the top a bit also

with these weights think of the pin as the pivot point ....like a see saw....
 
i'm running hauck x weights, 3.5 grams tip mid and shoulder empty. Sled jumps to 9300 then falls to 8750-8800 on top. Pulls excellent I love these weights. I was thinking of shaving a gram off the tip and adding to the center hold with something like a gram. I'm just playing with them yet.
 
sj said:
list your weight grams and locations...

a gram off the tip should get a couple hundered rpm each sleds torque at peak is different though..

you can even add a gram to the shoulder which will pull down engagement a bit but will help the top a bit also

with these weights think of the pin as the pivot point ....like a see saw....

I'm purely stock clutch right now...Do I need to get Ulmers kit in order to jump the rpms 150-200 or can I do it with the stock set-up?
 
I'm purely stock clutch right now...Do I need to get Ulmers kit in order to jump the rpms 150-200 or can I do it with the stock set-up?

There and many ways to get it to jump up 200 rpms stock. How many miles are on the sled? I know once mine broke in the rpms gradually climped to 9200. I'm also geared up now. But if you lower the gearing you will gain rpms if i'm thinking right, makes the weights act lighter. You can always adjust your secondary to gain the 200 incriments since its such a small amount. I dont suggest trying to zero in your rpms using the secondary but for a few 100 rpms its ok. adding a muffler that is more "free flowing" will also give you r's.
 
billymx815 said:
sj said:
list your weight grams and locations...

a gram off the tip should get a couple hundered rpm each sleds torque at peak is different though..

you can even add a gram to the shoulder which will pull down engagement a bit but will help the top a bit also

with these weights think of the pin as the pivot point ....like a see saw....

I'm purely stock clutch right now...Do I need to get Ulmers kit in order to jump the rpms 150-200 or can I do it with the stock set-up?

how many miles on the sled? actually ...assuming you are broke in...and good belt...you can still gain top end rpms...my first easy recommend is cheack your secondary spring...if its not the white I reco it...and increase the twist to 6-1
 
ericmichael said:
i'm running hauck x weights, 3.5 grams tip mid and shoulder empty. Sled jumps to 9300 then falls to 8750-8800 on top. Pulls excellent I love these weights. I was thinking of shaving a gram off the tip and adding to the center hold with something like a gram. I'm just playing with them yet.

asumming your numbers above are with traction...you are too high out of the hole (add shoulder weight) and if bone stock just about perfect on top...but with the shoulder weight you might need to take a gram of the tip...
 
Did a new setup with the Drag and fly weights. My top speed is now down to 172kmh at 9200rpm. I will put back my stock weights and helix and will tell you the max rpm at 180+ kmh. After this i will try to put some overdrive weight in the clickers to see i i could gain some kmh.
 
Did 114 today on plowed road, but it had 3-4" of fluff on it, so it was holding me back at bit. It's got more yet...
 
sj said:
billymx815 said:
sj said:
list your weight grams and locations...

a gram off the tip should get a couple hundered rpm each sleds torque at peak is different though..

you can even add a gram to the shoulder which will pull down engagement a bit but will help the top a bit also

with these weights think of the pin as the pivot point ....like a see saw....

I'm purely stock clutch right now...Do I need to get Ulmers kit in order to jump the rpms 150-200 or can I do it with the stock set-up?

how many miles on the sled? actually ...assuming you are broke in...and good belt...you can still gain top end rpms...my first easy recommend is cheack your secondary spring...if its not the white I reco it...and increase the twist to 6-1

I am not really broken in...just over 300miles. Guess I better wait a few hundred miles before messing with things...right?
 
SledFreak said:
Did 114 today on plowed road, but it had 3-4" of fluff on it, so it was holding me back at bit. It's got more yet...

115mph is my goal number...What mods do you have?
 


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