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This may save your Nytro motor..


Roest said:
Pretty sure nothing has changed. Even if the ribbing has been modified to alleviate the rubbing issue, you still have the same inadequate plastic panels that do little to protect the sled. Best to invest in a Roest skid plate and be done with it. I may be biased, but it's the truth.

The Roest skidplate is awesome!! Worth it's weight in gold. I do mostly trail riding also, but you never know what you may encounter!! Peace of mind is priceless!! :drink:
 
On the last ride in the spring of 2009 my oil filter blew out at the seam, leaked all the oil out. The light came on and the motor did shut itself down so the dealer thought it would be ok, as it seem to run just fine, but with only 50 miles or so into the next season it took out two rod bearings. I went the rest of the season without the sled and just out it back late this summer. Even just running them low on oil for a short time and its all over with. Now I have to run it with the worry if its going to hold together, its not an easy rebuild like a 2-cycle.
 
Vector1 said:
On the last ride in the spring of 2009 my oil filter blew out at the seam, leaked all the oil out. The light came on and the motor did shut itself down so the dealer thought it would be ok, as it seem to run just fine, but with only 50 miles or so into the next season it took out two rod bearings. I went the rest of the season without the sled and just out it back late this summer. Even just running them low on oil for a short time and its all over with. Now I have to run it with the worry if its going to hold together, its not an easy rebuild like a 2-cycle.

Faulty filter?
 
Buy Back

Nitrousman1 said:
Glad to see I may have helped a few people save their motors. I've been told the Yamaha filter is a little shorter which would help with clearance but it's still a bad design with that bar placed right underneath it. My sled had the oil changed by the previous owner and had an aftermarket filter so when I bought a new filter it was the same exact size as what I removed. The replacement filter lists as the OEM equivalent so why would their be a difference in size? Oh well, my insurance paid out but it wasn't as much as I had in the sled but at least I got something.

Did you buy it back? If you did, how much did it cost? I had the exact same thing happen top mine. I've got 3,000.00 in upgrades and would hate to loose it!
 
Stock skid plate

enticeraised said:
I put that extra skid on and it collects 30 pounds or more of ice by the end of the day. Very poor

I would remove the stock skidplate before adding the aftermarket one. Doubleing them up does not help. I had the Skinz plate on top of the stock skid plate and it still cut my filter.
 
i dont think the engine will shut down from no oil.what if u were crossing the road infront of a mack truck and ur sled just quit in the middle of the road from low oil
 
I believe the biggest factor is that people are using after market filters such as Fram. These filters are approx 1" longer than Yamahas. I've also drilled 3 small holes, one in each of my stabilizer grooves on my Yamaha belly pan. This way when she thaws out in my heated shop after every run, it's bone dry the next day.
 
Continued

I know for a fact that it doesn't shut the motor down. I can't say if the oil light even came on. If it did, it didn't give much notice.
 
canoehead said:
I believe the biggest factor is that people are using after market filters such as Fram. These filters are approx 1" longer than Yamahas. I've also drilled 3 small holes, one in each of my stabilizer grooves on my Yamaha belly pan. This way when she thaws out in my heated shop after every run, it's bone dry the next day.

The OEM Nytro filter is 2" long. There is also a Yamaha filter that fits that is 2 3/4" long. You can get both lengths in the aftermarket. A lot of people are using the longer filter which minimizes clearance. The skid plate I designed allows for more clearance because it is flat. The biggest problem is still that the OEM plastic POS "engine protector" is highly inadequate in protecting both the engine sump and front heat exchanger, let alone the oil filter.
 
Re: Continued

00-NUKE said:
I know for a fact that it doesn't shut the motor down. I can't say if the oil light even came on. If it did, it didn't give much notice.

The manual states that oil pressure (hot) at idle (1400 rpm) is 7.3 PSI. That tells me that the oil pressure switch won't shut the engine down until oil pressure drops below that, probably around 3-4 PSI. The oil pump relief valve is set to relieve at 63-81 PSI. The higher an engine revs the more oil pressure it requires to operate. In your case you were zippin' down the trail with a leaking filter. Let's say you were doing 7000 rpm and only making 20 PSI oil pressure. That's enough to keep the oil pressure switch closed and engine running, but not enough pressure to keep the rod bearings from failing. I feel your pain.
 
Damage Pics

Here is the damage from my experience in this matter.
 

Attachments

  • Motor - Crank2.JPG
    Motor - Crank2.JPG
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  • Motor - Oil Filter2.JPG
    Motor - Oil Filter2.JPG
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  • Motor - Case2.JPG
    Motor - Case2.JPG
    163.2 KB · Views: 111


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